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Discussion Topic:
hot restart problems
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mike39 |
09-09-2013 @ 4:46 PM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Jan 2012
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Update--- Griffin aluminum radiator helped cooling some. Not night and day better than the re-cored stock radiator, but some better none the less. The starter that a local guy worked on is great ! He added 2 more field windings. Helped a lot. It will crank a fresh rebuilt and hot flathead. The original starter had 2 field windings with space for 2 more. Guess Ford thought 2 was enough...but 4 is better ! Mike
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TomO |
08-16-2013 @ 8:21 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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An aluminum radiator will not cool as well as a copper radiator. The current cores do not seem to transfer heat as well as the Ford cores. If you have your radiator re-cored, make sure that they use a core with louver fins. You can use a shroud or a flex fan to improve the slow speed cooling. You will have to make your own shroud, they were not available for the pre-WWII cars. The reason that I call the quick start wire a "band-aid" is that there are thousands of flatheads out there without one and they start fine.
Tom
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mike39 |
08-15-2013 @ 5:19 PM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Jan 2012
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ordered the starter bracket...cant hurt anything to put it back on. As far as the quick start wire...I wouldn't call it a band aid. Mustangs in the 60's did the same thing but their wire came off a second small post on the starter solenoid. Anyone here use an aluminum radiator on their flat head ? Wonder if its worth the money ? If the cooling fan was up higher so you could use a shroud and pull air from the whole core im sure the stock radiator would work a lot better. Mike
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TomO |
08-14-2013 @ 7:25 AM
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Senior
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Here is a link to Dennis Carpenter's catalog page with a picture. http://dennis-carpenter.com/search.aspx?ss=starter&c=&pgnum=4&d=2 You can also Google 51A-11140 The quick start wire is a band aid and you may eventually have to find the cause and repair the problem. The purpose of the bracket is to keep the starter from twisting when engaged and causing the Bendix to hang up on the flywheel. It may help, but you may still have a problem with the starter running slow.
Tom
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mike39 |
08-13-2013 @ 6:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Jan 2012
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Tried the supereal quick start wire. It helps! Still cranks slow when hot but it will start. Does anyone have a pic of the brace that's supposed to go between the starter and oil pan bolt ? I don't have that. I bet a lot of them were thrown away. Thanks, Mike
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TomO |
08-12-2013 @ 8:29 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
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Mike, In that case, use a good voltmeter to check the cranking voltage at the battery and the voltage drop from the battery to the starter. If you need help with the voltage drop test. let me know.
Tom
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supereal |
08-10-2013 @ 8:26 PM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Trying to boost starter power usually results in a destroyed unit. As noted, if all cables are of sufficient size, connections are clean and tight, and the battery is strong, yet the starter is slow, it is time to look for a new or rebuilt unit. Be sure you have the brace between the starter and an oil pan bolt, as torsion can bind the drive in the ring gear. Worn bushings allow the armature to drag on the field shoes.
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mike39 |
08-10-2013 @ 4:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Jan 2012
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Tom, We tried the ignition off and on, no difference. A local guy that's good with electrical says he can modify the starter so it will crank it faster. We will see.....Gonna try the hot start wire too. Mike
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TomO |
08-09-2013 @ 7:43 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike, you may also have a timing problem. Check the cranking speed with the ignition off and when the ignition switch is on. If it cranks slower with the switch on, have your distributor checked over by a qualified mechanic.
Tom
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TomO |
08-08-2013 @ 8:47 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike, I checked their site and they do not give the current draw of their motor. It may be drawing more current than your battery can provide, resulting in turning the engine over slow. The Ford starter draws 150-200 amps and with a good battery and connections should turn your motor over very fast. I suggest that you use a good voltmeter to check the battery voltage with the starter turning and a voltage drop test of both the positive and negative circuits. Your battery should provide at least 5 volts at the battery to the starter. You should not have more than .1 volt drop at each connection, the total voltage drop from the battery to the starter should not exceed .5 volts, but in a good system, it will read about .3 volts.
Tom
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