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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Temp Gage 12 V Conversion

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Discussion Topic: Temp Gage 12 V Conversion

supereal

07-07-2013 @ 9:23 PM

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Voltage is dependent on the product of current and resistance. This is why it is important to use a separate reducer for each gauge. As you have already done this, carefully check the voltage at the gauge. Adjust the reducer to show no morenthan seven volts. If the gauge needle goes over to hot and stays there, either the wire from the sender is open, or the body of the sender isn't grounded to the cylinder head. Don't use tape or sealer on the sender.
If you have a two terminal sender between the single pole sender and the gauge, place a jumper across the terminal to see if the gauge works correctly. Test the gauge by grounding the sender wire. If the gauge doesn't move toward the cold side, it is probably not working if the earlier tests show the circuit from the sender to the gauge is intact. If you ran the gauge on 12 volts, it is likely it is burned out.

tex42

07-07-2013 @ 7:46 PM

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Apparently the gage is getting too much voltage or maybe not enough resistance? I'm not sure how to make it read less than it does now. Being as old as it is something might be wrong with the gage. Has anybody ever heard of or put in one or two under dash modern temperature gages?

tex42

07-07-2013 @ 6:12 PM

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I have and individual voltage reducer on each instrument in the dash.

supereal

07-07-2013 @ 3:49 PM

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Each gauge needs its own voltage dropper. The temp gauge sender has a heating element the requires six volts only to be accurate.

tex42

07-07-2013 @ 1:36 PM

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I have converted my 42 Ford from 6 volt to 12 Volt. Everything is going great and engine running great. I have one problem, I'm using the original gages and installed a 6-12 volt converter on the Temp Gage and when running at about 180 degrees (using a digital laser gage) the dash gage says it is max hot, "H". How do I or what do I put in the circuit to get the gage to read "N"
David

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