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Discussion Topic:
94 Carbureter Pump plunger
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rradar |
06-25-2013 @ 10:18 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks to everyone that helped with the carburetor problem. I disassembled it doing minor cleaning and saving old gaskets which were still useable. I also cleaned the fuel pump bowl and installed a new cork gasket. I put some gas into the float chamber, charged up the battery and then, holding my breath, pushed the starter button. With choke out and a couple of cranks of the starter, the flathead started right up. I ran the motor for 10 minutes and then shut it off. After restarting to check for leaks I decided to stop and call it a success. When a V8 flathead is running good it makes your day!! Thanks again guys!!
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40 Coupe |
06-24-2013 @ 5:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1679
Joined: Oct 2009
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In some of the rebuilding kits the accelerator pump rod is not the correct length, this is the metal part of the pump and has the long oval hole. If you have an old original compare the two. The incorrect, short, length will prevent the pump from going down all the way. I agree the leather accelerator pump is better than the plastic.
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Gary M. |
06-22-2013 @ 6:29 PM
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Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009
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I don't know if your using your old carb or if you purchased a used one ,but one thing to be aware of is that the accelerator pump cylinder often becomes pitted and scored. When this happens the piston doesn't make good contact with the cylinder walls and then there is poor pumping action. I have purchased carbs from ebay only to find out they had severe pitting. I used a small hone and fine emery paper to polish the cylinder, but upon inspection with a strong magnifying glass I found that the pitting was deeper than I thought. You can only take off so much material from the cylinder before the piston no longer makes contact. So check out the cylinder with a strong magnifying glass and light to see the condition. I don't think there is any fix or remedy to this problem. Good luck....
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ford38v8 |
06-20-2013 @ 11:09 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
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And... that rubber piston is wrong wrong wrong. Replace it with a leather piston. Nothing works like leather.
Alan
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supereal |
06-20-2013 @ 7:03 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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It is likely the rubber is not fuel proof, and has swelled and become sticky. The pump is actually moved by the spring over its shaft. We are finding the springs in many kits are too weak for dependable operation, so we usually install the originals. A good quality kit should fix your problem.
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rradar |
06-20-2013 @ 5:37 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Nov 2009
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The accelerating Pump Plunger on my 40 Ford is not going down to the bottom on the plunger well. So no gas to the nozzles. The plunger is held by an activating rod and spring with a retainer. The plunger sometimes fails to go down when the activated. It has a neoprene rubber end on the plunger that contacts the side of the well. Does this rubber need to be slippery for less drag on the well side??
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