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Discussion Topic:
Fuel problem
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joe b |
06-20-2013 @ 7:21 AM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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In communication with the Airtex Tech people their electric fuel pump Part No. E8902 is a flow through pump that can be installed and used for priming or vapor lock.It can be left off while driving. I know others have mentioned this pump but I thought I would post what I found out. This sounds like the way to go.
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supereal |
06-16-2013 @ 3:48 PM
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Senior
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Joined: Oct 2009
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We don't use the oil pressure switch, as flathead oil pressure often gets near zero at idle. I understand the safety issue. The car companies use an "inertia" switch that shuts off the pump when a hard stop is detected. As for pumps, we have installed the pumps from C&G for years with no flow thru problems. As you have narrowed the problem down. I suspect the valves in the fuel pump may be restricting flow. I'd run a fuel pressure test at the carb that you can observe as you drive.
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joe b |
06-16-2013 @ 2:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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Tom O and Super. Tom I replaced the entire fuel line with new metal not rubber line. I don't see how it could collapse. The problem is that I will run out of fuel in about 10 blocks with the electric pump off. Turn it on,wait a few seconds and it will fire up and run fine.So, fuel cannot be passing through the pump with it turned off even though C&G and Carter say it should. Super. My pump is wired to a toggle switch because the old pump I had was wired this way for priming and vapor lock. The switch is wired to the ignition so if I forgot it it would shut off. Do you have an oil pump pressure switch that you like and preferably a part number? Thanks
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supereal |
06-15-2013 @ 5:30 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you use an oil pressure switch as a safety measure, be sure to include a spring loaded bypass switch to allow the use of the pump to prime the carb before the engine is running. We wire the pump thru the ignition switch, anyway, so it is not running when the engine is off.
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TomO |
06-15-2013 @ 9:50 AM
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Posts: 7256
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Joe, You said that you replaced the fuel line going to the electric pump, could it be collapsing under the vacuum from the mechanical fuel pump? Your mechanical fuel pump should be able to deliver fuel through the pump. The best way to wire the electric pump is through an oil pressure safety switch.
Tom
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joe b |
06-14-2013 @ 12:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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I think I may have found my problem. After all of the items I have posted above,I let the engine run with the throttle pulled out at fair high RPM and it ran fine. The electric fuel pump was not on. Pulled back in the garage account rain and it sat 5 days. Got in,fired right up and went for a drive. I got 7 blocks before it quit. Turned the electric fuel pump on and started again. Drove about 53 miles in city,on Interstate at 65 MPH and up hills in high gear and it ran fine. So...it appears that the fuel pump has to be on all the time. The fuel pump is a Carter EFP9350-6C. I called C&G Tech line and they said the pump is a flow through and I can use it for priming and backup. I called the Carter Tech line and they said the same thing. But this is not the case with my installation. A few questions/concerns: If I am in slow traffic or a long idle situation will the electric pump overflow the mechanical pump or carb? Is there a way to have the electric disabled in case of a bad accident? I am a retired fireman and this bothers me. During the drive I did not smell gas and after I stopped found no evidence of overflowing.
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TomO |
06-11-2013 @ 7:03 AM
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Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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I agree with Bill Large, do some diagnostic work to isolate the problem.
Tom
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supereal |
06-10-2013 @ 7:20 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Me. I've found that out the hard way!
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joe b |
06-10-2013 @ 4:33 PM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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Super, Thanks for the suggestion. I used spring clips and hose supplied. Looked under today and found gas moisture at both ends. Removed hose supplied and replaced with Ethanol proof hose and worm gear clamps. Whodathunkit?
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supereal |
06-09-2013 @ 7:43 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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In addition to Bill's suggestion, if you have the spring type hose clamps anywhere between the tank and the carb, replace them with the worm gear type. The spring type, usually supplied with an electric pump, tend to leak air. This allows the pump(s) to lose prime and imitate running out of gas. If your problem happens with both pumps, I'd réclamp them. We don't use the hoses in the kits because they are often not fuel proof. If you are not using hose barb fittings between steel and rubber connections, that is also a problem.
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