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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1940 Ford Engine ID

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Discussion Topic: 1940 Ford Engine ID

ronnie

06-08-2013 @ 3:53 PM

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Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013

I am a new member and would like some help in verifying the engine in a 1940 Ford. I have The 1940 Ford Book from the Early
Ford V-8 Club and it has the shelf for the pencil,the block seems
To be correct in front and back top. the problem I am having is the
15/16 bump behind the oil sender. ,Mine has a raised bump in the
Center of the clutch cover with numbers in it. It has the distributor in front with caps on both sides. the cylinder bore is 3 1/16. the paint
Is a light green and it was painted before it was assembled as there
Is no paint in any gaskets. Any help is greatly appreciated .

Thanks very much,
Ronnie
cid:D2384A00-5217-4303-982B-91B9E753E1A2/DSC_0299.JPG

kubes40

06-08-2013 @ 6:03 PM

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Joined: Oct 2009

1940 engine block:
• The top water openings, between the center cylinders, were shaped like triangles while the center and bottom openings were shaped like trapezoids.
• The top surface that mated with the valve chamber cover was smooth. That is, there was no raised flange. Raised flanges did not appear until approximately the middle of August, 1940. They arrived too late for 1940 production, so they would have been on engine blocks in 1941 vehicles.
• The standard bore was 3 1/16" diameter. Although all engine blocks were intended to be sleeved, this did not always happen. As a result some engines were sleeved while others were not.
• Four core plugs were on the machined surface that mated with the oil pan. These plugs created raised areas on the sides of the block.

• Exhaust manifold mating surfaces were raised about 5/16" from the casting proper. This is unlike later blocks which were nearly flush with the casting.
• Main bearing journals were a nominal 2.5" diameter.
• Crankshaft length was a nominal 26.03".
• A definite “shelf’ was cast above the timing gear cover. To help identify a correct engine block, this shelf is often used for the “pencil test” — meaning that a pencil will easily rest on this shelf.
• The top of clutch housing was integral of the block casting.

Engine blocks were painted what is commonly referred to as “Ford Engine Green”. The machined surface areas that mated with the cylinder heads and valve chamber cover were masked prior to painting. Thus, those areas were intended to remain free of paint.
Some blocks were stamp coded on the left of the top machined surface between the cylinder head and valve chamber cover, very near the front, to indicate various items used in production. On occasion these codes were stamped erroneously on the right side. Common codes were “HS” for hardened sleeves and “AP” for aluminum pistons.

ronnie

06-09-2013 @ 7:30 AM

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Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013

thanks for the information.my engine has all the identifications of
Being a 1940 except it has the raised block under the intake,and
It does not have the four core plugs in the machined surface on
Oil pan. It appears to be a 1941 block. Is it possible that a late
In the year built 1940 could have a early 1941 block? If not ,how
Big of a points deduction would that been to restore this car to
Original and show it at a Early Ford V-8 show? Also how rare
Are original 1940 blocks?

thank you for your time
Ronnie

kubes40

06-09-2013 @ 10:00 AM

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Posts: 3395
Joined: Oct 2009

The standard deduction for an incorrect engine block is 20 points.
Correct blocks (good ones) are fairly tough to find. I have three of them and may part with one if you desire.
Could a raised intake block have made it in a 1940 Ford? NO. As I stated in an earlier post, that block was not manufactured in time to make it in any 1940 Ford.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth

ronnie

06-09-2013 @ 3:12 PM

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Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013

Thank you for all your help,for now I am going to have wait
Awhile before I make a decision.

Thanks again
Ronnie

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