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Discussion Topic:
Condenser
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42guy |
04-17-2013 @ 4:17 PM
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New Member
Posts: 108
Joined: Oct 2009
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I relocated my condenser about 10 years ago and showed John what I did. I use a Standard Blue Streak condenser for a late 60's Mopar 318 cid. Per the tech rep. at Standard it is rated at .28-.33 mfd. Acounting for a slight loss of resistence for the longer lead, it should bring in spec for the flathead. I have not had any point problems using this. As many of you know that are in the 70's, the fingers that are curling and knotty from Arthritis such as mine, it helps to have things easy to work on. Also these are US made according to the box.
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flathead48 |
04-11-2013 @ 5:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 314
Joined: Dec 2009
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The last condenser that went bad was a new one from NAPA got a half mile from my house and the car quite, put the old one back on and ran until I put up for winter. Guess I Ca try another one thanks again guys.
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supereal |
04-11-2013 @ 2:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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There are two main problems with the condensers available today. The connection tab or wire at the center is often poorly attached, and the dielectric material is inferior. It used to be waxed paper, but God only knows what the offshore producers are using. We also obtain ours from NAPA, and toss the ones with the kits.
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40ford |
04-11-2013 @ 11:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Oct 2009
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I can tell you from experience, testing well over 100 V-8 condensers, the stuff you buy today is JUNK. One supplier, and a well known and credible one, was selling NOS condensers. I tested several that I bought as well as friends bought, and they were ALL bad. They probably would have worked for a while, but not long term. They absorb moisture after several years and are no good. Don't ever buy an nos condenser. I have found that NAPA (Eichlin)sells very good replacements for the '37-'41s, but they are a bit shorter and not as fat as the originals, but will work perfectly. As for the '42-'48s, I'd see if NAPA sells a replacement and try that, or get a modern one with a pigtail and make it work. Same with points - NAPA's Eichlins are good.
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TomO |
04-11-2013 @ 7:23 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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John, It is your car and you can place parts anywhere that you like. I have only had one event in the last 38 years of driving my 1940 Mercury, where the condenser was the problem. It was a new condenser that had a cold soldered joint on the grounding tab. I have never tried to change a coil, condenser or distributor in the dark. I do have a 6 volt trouble light in my trunk as well as a LED trouble light, that I use when trouble raises its ugly head after the sun goes down. I am a firm believer that the cars were designed by engineers that used the best practices of the day. Ignition condensers have been inside and alongside of the distributor from the beginning of the use of point distributors to the end of their use, so I see no need to change the location. If I was having a problem with a high failure rate, I would change my supplier. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 4-11-13 @ 7:35 AM
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supereal |
04-10-2013 @ 8:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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My "road kit" contains a spare condenser in a plastic pill bottle with clip leads connected to condenser. I haven't had to use it myself, but it has gotten a couple of others back home. Little cost, but a good thing to have out on the road.
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oldford2 |
04-10-2013 @ 5:34 PM
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Member
Posts: 275
Joined: Oct 2009
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"There should be no need to place the condenser on the coil" Tom, have you ever been on the side of the road at night troubleshooting?? Try changing a condenser down there in the dark. My condenser doesn't seem to understand it is losing microfarads mounted on the coil. Keep things simple. John
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deuce_roadster |
04-10-2013 @ 7:45 AM
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Member
Posts: 284
Joined: Oct 2009
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As a preventitive measure, I and many I know use a drop of "super glue" to seal where the wire comes out and along the end of the condenser to prevent what TomO describes about air and moisture getting inside. It can't hurt and may seal it up a little better.
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TomO |
04-10-2013 @ 7:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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The long lead changes the resistance and inductance of the circuit. The change would be small in a 12" lead, but it could make a difference if the capacitor is at one end or the other of the acceptable range. There should be no need to place the condenser on the coil. A quality condenser will function for a long time mounted on the outside of the distributor. Condensers usually fail due to air leakage bringing moisture into the can and corroding the connections.You should always use fresh condensers in your ignition system and buy from a reliable supplier.
Tom
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flathead48 |
04-10-2013 @ 7:02 AM
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Member
Posts: 314
Joined: Dec 2009
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What if you hooked the condenser to the dist side of the coil instead of running a long lead. Would that work? Thanks to all who have assisted with this issue
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