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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Temperature sensors and gauge

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Discussion Topic: Temperature sensors and gauge -- page: 1 2 3

MikeRhodes

12-27-2012 @ 4:49 AM

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I have a 34 Ford Roadster (Timmis Ford) with a late model (1950? V8). It has no temperature warning system and I'd like to add one.

Santa gave me two temp sensors (from MACs), one fore each engine head. I'd like to get a gauge that'll work for this 6 volt system (though my car has been converted to 12 volt).

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I should best proceed? Does one use a single gauge that merges (averages?) the two sensor readings or should one have two discrete gauges? Naturally, I'd like to give the overall look a somewhat authentic (antique) style.

TomO

12-27-2012 @ 7:01 AM

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The single terminal sending unit varies its out put with temperature changes, the dual terminal sending unit is a switch that opens when the temperature of the coolant is near boiling temperature.

These sending units are designed to work with the Ford version of the King Seeley gauges. These were used from 1940-1955 with 6 volts. The 12 volt version came into use in 1956.

Macs has a package that includes a 12 volt sending unit with a 12 volt gauge, which may be a better solution than usung an earlier gauge and a voltage reducer.

http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=F50&year=1955&make=Ford&ss=temperature+sending+unit&x=15&y=8

Tom

rotorwrench

12-27-2012 @ 7:05 AM

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The 8BA engines used the King Sealy temp sender/switch system for all years 1948 thru 53 for USA production. The right side cylinder head was where the actual sender was located and the left side head used a more simple temerature sensitive switch that is set to open with a temperature as usually stamped on the switch body. This way they could be connected in series. The indicators were all designed to fit the different year model and style of dash clusters of the time so I don't know of any that use a separate gauge with bezel. The idicators always give a fully hot reading until power is supplied to the system with all connections made between sender/switch and ignition on power terminal.

You can use an indicator from any of the FoMoCo vehicles designed to use the King Sealy sender/switch system but you will either need a constant voltage regulator or a runtz voltage control device to drop the voltage on the battery side of the indicator for the system to function correctly with 12-volts.

supereal

12-27-2012 @ 8:56 AM

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The single terminal sender has a heater winding inside to provide a reference to the bimetal points. Thus, match the sensor to the voltage to avoid damage. The resistance type voltage reducers are not regulated. There is a voltage dropper Ford used primarily in Mustangs to provide stable voltage for gauges. If I was adding a temp gauge, I'd opt for one of the Stewart-Warner mechanical type. While the flathead engine is actually two four cylinder blocks merged, the coolant is combined in the radiator, so only one sensor is necessary.

MikeRhodes

12-27-2012 @ 9:59 AM

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Thanks to each of you, TomO, rotowrench and supernal. I am both impressed and grateful for your prompt reply. The advice provided from each of your is generally consistent and sound. Thanks.
Here's how I'm leaning.... I think I'll go with simplicity, that is, no voltage reduction/regulation, only one sender, and a paired sender and gauge. I think I'll look on the web and see what I can find. Supereal's suggestion for a simple mechanical Stewart-Warner type is attractive. Yet now, since I'll look around a bit, I thought I could find a dual gauge that includes oil pressure too. In this way, I might use only one 2 1/16" gauge location to report both. I'd like to keep the dash trim and uncluttered but fear driving any distance without knowing water temp and oil pressure.

MikeRhodes

12-27-2012 @ 10:04 AM

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... I meant to add that, should I proceed as indicated, I'll probably return the two sending units back to Mac's (not until I fully finish my 'discovery').

12-27-2012 @ 11:11 AM

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Mike,

I had the same concern as you - "driving any distance without knowing water temp and oil pressure" - this, in my '34. I resolved the problem by installing a 'Smith's Dual Gauge' as seen in the attached photo. I installed it in a 2 inch gauge cup and and strapped it to the steering column. It's a mechanical gauge - both water and oil - very accurate and a piece of cake to install on my stock '34 engine. I too, was concerned about maintaining an "uncluttered" look. It almost looks as though it belongs.......

This message was edited by MG on 12-27-12 @ 11:13 AM

MikeRhodes

12-27-2012 @ 11:25 AM

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MG, Perfect, Thanks!
I'll run down the Smith's Dual gauge. I have a hole already in my dash where the previous owner placed a 2 1/16" fuel gauge. I'll use that place for the dual Water Temp/Oil pressure gauge. (The secondary fuel gauge does not work, it was to replace the hydrostatic fuel gauge, that I want to fix).

In other words, I have two fuel gauges neither of which function.

12-27-2012 @ 11:30 AM

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Too bad about the 'hole' in your dash. I haven't had a working fuel gauge (in my '34) for the past 20+ years and have never ran out of gas.......

This message was edited by MG on 12-27-12 @ 11:32 AM

trjford8

12-27-2012 @ 6:25 PM

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The mechanical gauges are the most accurate and don't require a sending unit. I have installed gauges in the right side kick panel and it avoids putting extra holes in the dash. You can see the gauges from the driver's seat.

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