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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Clutch question

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Clutch question

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FFracer
12-26-2012 @ 4:28 PM
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Well I guess I am back were I started if it's not slipping then leave it alone, Can't think of a way I can determine if the parts are incorrect without pulling the trans back. That in the cold garage just does not sound like a fun job!

Thanks so much for all the help!

Chris

supereal
12-26-2012 @ 2:34 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You have boiled it down to whether the pressure plate and disc are correct. There was an "early" and "late" pressure plate used between '32 and '34. The early used a 9" plate, the later style went to 9 3/4". The early version was identical to the Model A. Different release bearings were used for each type. This may account for the fact that the clutch doesn't full engage until the pedal is almost back to the rest position. One of the advantages, and disadvantages,of old Fords is that often parts look the same, but have subtle differences.

FFracer
12-26-2012 @ 1:28 PM
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Linkage is in great shape, there is about 1/4" space between the T.O. and the adjustable fingers on the pressure plate with the pedal at it's rest position. This is with the 1"+ play with the pedal again at it's rest position until it just contacts the pressure plate... Now maybe this is just the way it is?? From the point were the clutch just begins to engage (Motor slows) I have only about 1/2" of pedal travel left and the rest is just the 1" of free play. So far no slipping even whith the messed up shifter that had me needing to leave in second gear.
Hope this makes some kinda sense.
Chris

This message was edited by FFracer on 12-26-12 @ 1:31 PM

TomO
12-25-2012 @ 8:23 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Check the cross-shaft bushings by having someone depress the pedal slowly. If the cross-shaft moves before rotating, the shaft and bushings need to be replaced.

Repeat the pushing of the pedal several time to see what moves and where the extra play is.

Tom

supereal
12-24-2012 @ 7:34 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I agree with Mike. The geometry of the linkage has a huge effect on adjustment. As you see a new release bearing, and clutch disc, it is a good bet someone installed the wrong parts. It could be an incorrect release shaft lever, or worn pins in the lever or release fork. I've seen both when junkyard parts were used.

kubes40
12-24-2012 @ 1:49 PM
Senior
Posts: 3395
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I'd start by checking each and every pivot point. You would be amazed at how much difference even a little wear can make at a clevis.
Repair every point back to new and see what you have then.

FFracer
12-24-2012 @ 11:40 AM
Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Hey all,
I mentioned this problem a while back... The clutch pedal in my 33 engages way up at the top, I have about an inch+ of free-play. So it's not something that can be adjusted out unless I give it about 3" of free-play.
Anyway today I noticed there is a inspection plate at the top of the bell housing, 2 screws and I removed it. I can see it looks as if the T.O. bearing is new the pressure plate is new and the disc looks new. So why the high pedal?? Would a flywheel that's been overcut be a cause of this. Was there different disc thickness's?
I thought for sure I would find a thin worn-out disc.

Chris

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