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Discussion Topic:
transmission problem
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FFracer |
01-04-2013 @ 8:06 PM
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Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
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Just got the shifter housing back yesterday, bolted it up and PERFECT! Shifts like what I would suspect is like new. VERY happy with VanPelts, Mac knows his stuff, fast and will spend time on the phone to explain whats wrong. Even got back the old parts... all in all a great day! Chris
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FFracer |
12-22-2012 @ 8:06 PM
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Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
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Yea buddy! I can't wait to get that shifter back. Really excited to give it a try. I will let ya-all know. Thanks Mac. Merry Christmas! Chris
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MG |
12-21-2012 @ 2:26 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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Excellent response, fortyfordguy!
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fortyfordguy |
12-21-2012 @ 1:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Oct 2009
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A follow up on Chris' shifter problem. He sent the shift tower to us. Took it completely apart. The primary problem was extreme wear in the shift fork slots (where the lever stabs in to move the fork). It would have been difficult for the lever to "find" the slot based on the wear. His tower had the early stamped steel bracket that enclosed both shift rails. Ford went to a revised shift fork for the early trannies that included a wider "flange" on either side of the groove in the fork. This helped guide the shift lever into the correct location to grab and move each fork. By changing to these forks, Ford eliminated the now unnecessary bracket device. We updated his tower to these with NOS forks. Also replaced the detent spring and caps (which were somewhat worn). His basic problem was the heavy wear in the forks. We also recommended that he check the shift lever for comparable wear on the stub end tips that move those forks. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_trans-pics/40-7231-30shiftfork-comparison.jpg
This message was edited by fortyfordguy on 12-21-12 @ 2:05 PM
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supereal |
12-09-2012 @ 8:03 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can remove the shifter without pulling the transmission. Just remove the floorboard and unbolt the cover and lift it up and out. Unless your clutch disc is worn out, you should be able to adjust it using the clevis on the rod to the pedal. Transmissions are complicated, and overhaul is best left to a pro. There are several out there, such as Charlie Schwendler in NY.
This message was edited by supereal on 12-10-12 @ 10:42 AM
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FFracer |
12-09-2012 @ 5:27 PM
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Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
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Thank You. I did twist the cone off and looked down the hole there is definitely some wear to the slot on the drivers side it looks to engage with the 3/8" dog that is welded to the left side of the stick. Yea I need a book or I send it to a re builder. I had asked about a year ago about high pedal clutch engagement I am certain it is a thin disc so maybe now it's time to drop the rear-end and pull the trans. Fun! Thank you, Chris
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supereal |
12-09-2012 @ 3:00 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The shift mechanism is a combination of springs, balls, and small blocker parts. Be sure to take a few pictures as you take it apart, as it is easy to get mixed up. The best exploded view I have is the one in the green book. There are lots of transmission views in the books, but few of the shifters. When I get some time, i'll look again in our stack of manuals.
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FFracer |
12-09-2012 @ 10:26 AM
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Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
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Thanks Super, I think you hit it with the ball. I am sure it has to do with somthing up top. I will pull the stick today and take a look in there just wish I had pictures to compare... Although half a ball would not be to hard figure out Thanks again Chris
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FFracer |
12-09-2012 @ 10:22 AM
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Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Oct 2011
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I don't think its the gears I can push on the stick without the clutch in and no grind therefore I don't beleave I am even getting to the point of moving the clusters into one another... It feels more like if there was an H pattern gate and I am just not getting into that slot (if you will) to move the stick into Rev. or first. certainly if you were to try and shove the shifter into first or reverse, engine running no clutch depressed you'd be grinding gears, in this situation even with the motor off I cannot get it to drop into 1st. or reverse gear. Thing is there both on the left side of the pattern, fore and aft, makes me think there has to be some sort of a guide or slot somthing that positions the stick to follow that path and it feels like maybe somehow this path has moved or the piece that follows this path is bent??? Thanks Again Chris
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supereal |
12-09-2012 @ 10:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The non-synchro gears gave birth to the technique known as "double clutching" where the clutch was momentarily engaged in neutral between shifts. This allowed the gears to shft positions to aid in finding a mesh. It is also possible that the blocker in the shft tower is worn enough to hinder the movement of the shift forks. The springs may be weak or broken. Be sure the shift lever cap is tightened on the tower, and that the ball on the transmission end of the shift lever isn't badly worn, preventing full movement of the forks. Your old gear box got a lot of wear in nearly 80 years.
This message was edited by supereal on 12-9-12 @ 10:13 AM
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