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Discussion Topic:
Gear Linkage Bushing Removal
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Steves46 |
09-23-2012 @ 6:21 AM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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Update; since the other linkage looked good the only one I changed out was the bottom rod (1st & reverse), took it out for a drive and so far, shifts great! Thanks for the assistance. Steve
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51f1 |
09-22-2012 @ 10:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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All of the transmission shift bushings I have bought came with a tool for installing the bushings. If the supplier you are looking at doesn't give you the tool, check some others. Carpenter used to furnish the tool.
Richard
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supereal |
09-22-2012 @ 7:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As Dan says, there is a "blocker" in the transmission side cover. This is a combination of springs, balls, and a rod. To shift, the cam on one shift lever must be in neutral position to allow the other to move. It usually works well as long as the bushings in the side plate and the fork shafts are OK. The small seals on the shafts of the shift levers are fragile, so we put paper over the shafts to guard the seals until the shafts are in place. This protects the seals from tearing.
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Stroker |
09-22-2012 @ 6:52 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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That should do it. In order to protect the transmission gears from damage, most side-shift transmissions have an interlock between the two levers, which requires that the low-reverse lever must move all the way into the neutral position before the second-high lever can move. when the bushings wear, it limits the travel into the true neutral position, which effectively blocks any movement of the second-high lever. The interlock is generally located in the side-shift cover. If you still have problems after replacing the linkage bushings, I'd inspect the interlock.
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Steves46 |
09-22-2012 @ 3:40 PM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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As always, thank you very much. Hopefully the new linkage will resolve my gear shift jam when I go from 1st to 2nd.
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supereal |
09-22-2012 @ 2:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Once the old rubber is out, you can usually grab the old brass and twist it out of the clevis with a pliers and/or a sidecutters. To set the new brass ferrules, lay the assembly on a strong surface with the end of the tube facing up. We use a ball peen hammer with the round end on the fitting, then use another hammer to drive it to flare the tube. It may take several whacks to fully expand the tube. Just be sure the brass washer is over the tube before you set it.
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Steves46 |
09-22-2012 @ 12:57 PM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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I need to change out the very worn gear linkage bushings on my 46 coupe and not to sure the best way to remove the old ones. When I removed the cotter pin and slid the rod from the transmission lever, the rubber almost fell into my hands. I'm just not sure how to remove the old brass fiting that held the rubber. Also, when I install the replacements, would channel locks or pliers be ok to set the brass fittings? Apprecaite any help! Steve
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