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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 37 Ford Fuel Tank Restoration

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Discussion Topic: 37 Ford Fuel Tank Restoration

TonyM

08-28-2012 @ 3:32 PM

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Posts: 459
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I recently removed the early style fuel tank from my 1937 Ford Fordor for restoration.

I have two questions that I need help with.

I removed the fuel guage sender unit from the tank and found it to be in pretty good condition. It is a little stained but over all it is not rusted or corroded. It does not appear to be damaged. Should I treat the sender unit mechanism with anything before I re-install it after the tank restoration? Or just leave it the way it is? Gumout?

What should I use to cover the sender hole with when I add the cleaning solution and sealer? I was thinking of making something to cover the sender hole. Any ideas? Thanks.

TonyM.

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78-73B

nelsb01

08-28-2012 @ 4:04 PM

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If there is no rust or corrosion on sender -- just leave it. Most are made Ford Tough.
As for the tank -- You can use a tin can cover and drill holes for the screws. You can use the sender screws. Make sure the tin can cover is bigger than the opening. Cut a piece of cork for a temporary gasket.

Stroker

08-28-2012 @ 4:07 PM

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TonyM:

If the sender works, and is only "stained", I believe I'd simply be happy, and re-install it.

As for blocking the hole, if you don't have a spare, inoperative sender, I'd make a
sheet metal cover out of say an electrical utility box cover and layout the holes
to match the sender, and screw in place with the original capscrews. I'd purchase two
gaskets, one for the patch, and one for the final installation.

I am, however curious as to how much trouble you had removing the tank (assuming the body is still on the frame). I need to do the same thing on my 38 wagon, and the
rear body floorpan is so close to the tank I'm having trouble getting enough clearance
to remove it.

Ben38

08-28-2012 @ 5:54 PM

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I used duct tape to seal the hole while sealing mine.

TonyM

08-28-2012 @ 8:06 PM

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Stroker,
I had no problems removing my 1937 Fordor fuel tank from the frame. The hardest part was getting the threaded sleeve for the fuel filler neck to break loose of the fuel tank. It took me a few months of hitting it with PB Blaster before I was able to get it to budge with a spanner.

When I got it to move, I drained the tank and loosened the three bolts that held the tank to the frame. I could not get the threaded sleeve to break loose from the filler neck so I cut it off (taking precautions to keep the fire hazard down). After I cut the fuel filler neck off, the threaded sleeve came off easy.

I removed the bolts that held the exhaust brackets to the frame and moved the tail pipe over a little. Once I got the three bolts off of the tank I simply pushed up on the tank and freed it from the frame. I moved the tank a few inches to the passenger side and lowered the left side and the tank came out easy.

I'm not sure how easy it is to remove the later 37 tank that has the lower part of the filler neck permanantly attached to the tank. Don't know much about the 1938 set up (I recently lent out my EFV-8 1938-1939 Book). I imagine it is similar to the late 37 configuration.

Good luck.

Thanks to all who replied.

TonyM.

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78-73B

This message was edited by TonyM on 8-28-12 @ 8:17 PM

37 Coupe

08-29-2012 @ 5:59 AM

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If the sender works fine but I would try to change the float if it is the original cork with the reddish sh*llac coating,ethanol will eat it up. I would try to change it to a brass float if you can find one or change to a later unit that will fit. Seems I remember using a 39 or 40 one that had changed to the brass float.

TomO

08-29-2012 @ 7:07 AM

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I have used plumbing test plugs to block the openings while cleaning and coating a tank. These are rubber plugs that expand when you tighten the wing nut. They give a positive seal, are easy to use and the cost is less than $3 around here. Most of the big box hardware and lumber stores have them.

I would remove the top cover on the sending unit and very carefully clean the contacts. Do not touch or break the hair sized wire. I would then change the float to a urethane or brass float.

Tom

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