Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
starting 36 ford v8 after it sits over 3 wks..
-- page:
1
2
|
|
Gail Rodda |
08-26-2012 @ 5:29 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 21
Joined: Jul 2010
|
I have several friends with electric pumps to prime the carb. They all let gas through when turned off. I like the idea of a spring loaded switch. I like this way to pump gas up to the carb. Pouring gas into the carb. could cause a fire.
|
Oldad |
08-26-2012 @ 1:42 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2012
|
Supereal, I take it your electric pump does not interfere with the flow of fuel when it is turned off. I bought a car with a failed electric pump, close to the tank and inline, with the mechanical pump. I removed the failed pump and found it difficult to blow through, indicating it was restricting fuel flow to the mechanical pump. I looked at the electric pumps at the C&G site but there was no information on free flow in the off position.
|
supereal |
08-26-2012 @ 11:17 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Most of the problems with inline electric pumps are caused by using the spring type clamps usually supplied with the pumps. Always use the worm screw clamps. We install barb fittings on each end of the original fuel line. Trying to seal a rubber hose on a non-barbed metal line depends on whether the line and hose are correctly sized. A hose that is just a bit too large will pucker and admit air. The barb fittings use a ferrule to seal to the metal. The clamp should be position behind the barb, not on top of it, as we often see. I've had an inline pump from C&G on my '47 for over ten years, after a Delco pump was ruined by alcohol in the gas. I use a spring loaded switch so I don't forget to turn the pump off after priming the carb.
|
TomO |
08-26-2012 @ 11:03 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7271
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I use the fuel pump with the glass sediment bowl and it will prime with about 30 seconds of using the starter in 10 second bursts and full choke after sitting a couple of weeks. Connections to electric pumps seem to cause as many problems as the pumps fix.
Tom
|
Gail Rodda |
08-26-2012 @ 10:03 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 21
Joined: Jul 2010
|
If you put A electric fuel pump on buy A gear pump. the first one I used was A diaphram type the car set A while & the diaphram turned to mush because of the ethynol in the gas. I also try to get 100% regular gas.
|
Stroker |
08-24-2012 @ 3:27 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
|
As a lad growing up with a fleet of flathead-powered agricultural Ford trucks and equipment, we kept an inventory of fuel pump inlet hoses, since that was usually the first thing we changed when things refused to start due to fuel delivery issues. The worst offenders were the expensive aftermarket "racy looking" ones with metal braid, as they would dry and crack inside, and look really good on the outside, while leaking air like a sieve. I'm with Super and Gail on the hose anti-drainback check valve. I see no advantage to it if everything else is OK. Most of these hoses fail by admitting air into the hose which pretty much destroys the vacuum that the fuel pump is trying to generate. The maker of the advertised "check-valve" hose also makes a very good modern fuel resistant stock-appearing hose without the check-valve, which I use. I also have an electric fuel pump on my 38; an ancient Bendix 6V-Pos. ground with a cleanable screen. I wish they still made these, as they were very reliable, and were used in many aircraft applications. A really good design, and just noisy enough to not forget to turn them off. This pump has been in-place* for 56 years, and I'm hoping a few more. * no, it hasn't been run continuously for 56 years.
This message was edited by Stroker on 8-24-12 @ 3:40 PM
|
supereal |
08-24-2012 @ 2:38 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
That's why many of us, including me, have an inline pump just outside the tank to allow refilling the carb after long periods of inactivity. I turn mine on, wait a minute or two, then pump the accelerator, and it starts on the first crank. It greatly reduces the cranking time, saving the battery. I still don't buy the "drain back" idea. The real reason for a dry carb is the "heat soak" after the vehicle is shut down. This causes evaporation of the fuel in the carb bowl. It became more of a problem when today's gas changed the "vapor pressure" of the fuel, allowing rapid loss when in the presence of heat. The inline pump, from C&G, is less than $70, complete with connections and filter, and will cure the "vapor lock" and "drain back" complaints. It is also a "belt and suspenders" backup if you have a fuel pump failure, a common problem with today's fuel.
|
Gail Rodda |
08-24-2012 @ 1:33 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 21
Joined: Jul 2010
|
I have been A ford mechanic for neerly 60 years & I have several antique ford cars & work on alot of my friends cars. The only cars that will start after setting for several months are fuel injected cars guess where the fuel pump is ( electric in the fuel tank) if you are replacing orignal style fuel pumps to stop them from draining back when setting A long time good luck.
|
supereal |
08-24-2012 @ 8:30 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
This problem can arise when the pump stand, manifold and/or the pump rod isn't correct for the vehicle due to changes over the years. If it ran before the pump was replaced, be sure that the replacement pump is, in fact, the same, even if not for the year of the car. A common problem with old Fords is that while parts may appear identical between years, there are often slight differences that make interchange tricky. Over the years, it was usual to head for the nearest junkyard for engines and parts, particularly during the war years, causing problems for the unsuspecting. We have run into these problems more than expected. It is complcated because vendors often use faulty interchange info.
|
TomO |
08-24-2012 @ 8:08 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7271
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Now that I have the details, I suspect a vacuum leak in the supply side of the fuel pump. Ford soldered the ferrule onto the gas line to reduce the chance of a vacuum leak. You can do the same. When you remove the tank end of the line, carefully examine the ferrule to ensure that it was crimped evenly when you tightened it. If it was not, trim it off and install a new one. I would not use the flex line with the valve. You should also check the fuel pump vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Here is an excerpt from my V-8 Times article: Failure to prime: There have been many complaints about gas evaporating from the carburetor when the vehicle sits for more than a week. This means that the fuel pump must prime itself and pump some gas into the carburetor before the engine will start. The Ford V-8 fuel pump must be able to generate and hold vacuum in order to draw the gas from the tank and lift it as much as 18 inches to the sediment bowl. Once the pump is primed, the pump must deliver gas to the carburetor. The source of the vacuum is the diaphragm and the input valve acts to hold the vacuum. A good pump will prime itself in about 30 seconds and start the car in about 60 seconds. Add about 30 seconds of time to fill the glass sediment bowl. Do not crank your car continuously for this length of time or you will burn out the starter. If you are having a problem with priming the fuel pump, hook a vacuum gauge to the input of the fuel pump and crank the engine. The vacuum gauge reading should rise to 10 inches in 18 seconds. Stop cranking the engine and watch the needle on the gauge. It should take at least one minute to reach 0. In order of probability causes of failure in this area are top cover or sediment bowl gasket leaks, input valve not working or defective diaphragm. The valves in the new after market pumps made by Air-Tek will not hold vacuum above 5 inches. This may lead to priming failures. The valves in the pre 1941 fuel pumps are more likely to fail than the later type. If the above test showed that the fuel pump was OK, move the gauge to the next connection in the input side of the fuel pump and retest. This will check out the flex line and the connections to the tank. If these tests results show good connections, the problem could be plugged lines or tank pickup. A bad connection may not leak fuel, but it will leak vacuum. The flex lines can leak at the crimp for the connection or from pinholes caused by not being alcohol resistant
Tom
|