LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / original paint match

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: original paint match

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

40fordor
08-11-2012 @ 4:33 AM
New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: Oct 2009
          
What kind of modern paint will match well with 1940 black original Ford paint? My rear fender was repaired in the 60's with that era filler (probably bondo) and black lacquer paint. The filler has now badly deteriated and the paint is cracking and falling off. I have a quart of the old type lacquer black paint which matched very well and I am wondering if that is the best solution. Anyone's experience in this area would be welcome.
Don

41SuperDeluxe
08-11-2012 @ 6:47 AM
Member
Posts: 53
Joined: May 2012
          
Hi Don -
I am not certain what type of modern paint will match the paint you have now, though a good paint man should be able to offer a close modern type paint.

Though I can suggest having your car brought to a paint shop where they can do a process called "profitting" or color scanning. Do not simply use the factory color code - as your paint is faded from the original after all these years.

This entails using a special devise to scan the surrounding areas to get the average color shade - then they use this data to determine the best paint mixture. A good paint man will blow in the paint so it is near undetectable to the surrounding area when finished.

I had this done with a British sport car and you are hard pressed to locate the repaint area.

Best,
John

This message was edited by 41SuperDeluxe on 8-11-12 @ 6:48 AM

MICHV8
08-11-2012 @ 7:06 AM
Member
Posts: 466
Joined: Jul 2010
          
I would take the fender off and take it down to metal. Very easy and fun to do. Investigate the repair area and consider filling it with lead (lead free solder) rather than 'bondo'. Also very easy and fun to do. Shoot it with epoxy primer (HVLP turbines are really nice and Fuji makes an excellent unit). Skim coat any imperfections with an all metal filler and shoot the fender with a high build lacquer primer. Sand. Finish with base color and optionally a clear coat. Wet sand. Buff. You now have a beautiful matching fender.

supereal
08-11-2012 @ 10:30 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
When it came time paint my black '47, I was surprised to learn that "black isn't always just black", and that there are considerable differences between both shades and formulas. The job was complicated by the fact that someone, sometime, had given it a quicky coat of lacquer based paint. When the body work was complete, several coats of special primer/sealer were applied, followed by a black color layer, then a clear coat. The results are not only beautiful, but extremely durable. This work in not a "do it yourself" project unless you are an experienced body man. The material, alone, is very expensive, and the application requires skill and equipment.

41SuperDeluxe
08-11-2012 @ 1:45 PM
Member
Posts: 53
Joined: May 2012
          
Superreal is spot on - paint shades etc do not match up easily - this is why even if you remove panels and strip to paint - it is best to get the area around the panel or spot needing paint to be profitted or color scanned - this is the best wat to ensure your new paint will blend in nicely.

Of course you need a good paint man to blow in the paint to get a flawless spot repair.

Good luck and let us know what you do.
John

TomO
08-12-2012 @ 9:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7275
Joined: Oct 2009
          
A single stage urethane paint will match the sheen of the original paint better than the base coat / clear coat and will hold up better than Henry's baked enamel.

Acrylic lacquer has a tendency to crack, but if the fender is properly repaired and an epoxy glazing is used, you could get many years of service from it. You may have a problem finding someone to spray the lacquer.

Trying to match a black paint is very difficult, but if you have the whole fender painted, the eye will not detect a minor shade difference.

If you are going to use a modern paint, I would have the fender stripped, and straightened before the repaint. Any large buildup of filler, including lead will eventually show signs of deterioration.

The lacquer paint or filler may not be compatible with the solvents in today's paints and it may lift off after a couple of months or years.

Tom

jal9846
08-13-2012 @ 11:23 AM
Member
Posts: 53
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I agree, best solution is to have the panel stripped completely, repaired, and re-painted with single stage acrylic urethane. Color match can be done at any paint supply shop, but generally early Fords match very closely to PPG DCC 9300. Wet sanded and buffed, the PPG DCC matches almost spot on to a hand rubbed lacquer finish.

<< previous || next >> 


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1