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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 39 standard ammeter-oil pressure gage issues ?

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 39 standard ammeter-oil pressure gage issues ? -- page: 1 2     David Bentley 06-08-2012 @ 3:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Mar 2010 Thanks. Finally worked up the nerve to let engine run long enough to get up to normal engine temp.finally at last, everything now appears to be working fine. Oil pressure did come down, once engine warmed up. Thank you to all who gave advice. I really appreciate all the help. 40 Coupe 06-08-2012 @ 5:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1685 Joined: Oct 2009 So the wiring from the gauge to the sender is good. What happens to the gauge with the wire connected and the engine not running but with the ignition switch on, if nothing the sender appears to be working, if the gauge reads high then it would appear the contacts inside the sender are closed and not opening properly. There is one other item I have found. Sometimes the sender can become blocked with engine sludge and crud trapping high oil pressure in the sender. When you remove the sender take a small wire or drill and probe the oil passage to the diaphragm (don't puncture diaphragm) just to make sure it is open, can spray some cleaner into the diaphragm and see if you can remove the crud to get the sender to work properly again, otherwise you need another sender. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-8-12 @ 5:22 AM David Bentley 06-07-2012 @ 4:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Mar 2010 40 coupe I did as you suggested, the gage does not move at all,both with the switch on and with the car running when the wire is removed from the sending unit. I have had the generator rebuilt,and the oil pressure still goes very high. Maybe its a bad sending unit ? 40 Coupe 06-06-2012 @ 3:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1685 Joined: Oct 2009 David: Did you remove the one wire on the oil pressure sender, isolate it from ground and start the engine? What happened to the gauge, did it move to high pressure? or did it not move? If it moved the wire is shorted to ground between the gauge and the removed wire terminal. If it did not move then the wire from the gauge to the sender has good continuity and the problem if any lies in the sender. ford38v8 06-05-2012 @ 8:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2780 Joined: Oct 2009 Posts like this one, I usually just read with no comment, as my expertise in these areas is lacking. However, in this case, I feel that i may offer something that has been overlooked by the others here: The '39 Standard was equipped with a 3 brush generator and a cutout as standard ...But this system was traded out for a 2 brush and regulator if a radio was installed. Ford recognized that the earlier setup was not capable of the additional load and the variables of headlights and radio, and possibly even a heater fan. The changeout to a 2 brush is advised for reliability as well as to be Concourse correct, as long as you also have a correct radio installed. Alan supereal 06-05-2012 @ 6:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 That would be about right for the battery without a load. I've seen your problem with too high voltage many times over the years. It has to come from the generator. There is no regulator, just a relay called the "cutout" that disconnects the generator when the engine is off. Look for A bare wire contact on the lead to the movable brush. The spring tension on the brush may have allowed the brush to move too far. It looks like your gauge problem and new harness may be a coincidence. The high output can cook your battery. Have the generator checked before you drive the car. We often recommend conversion to a two brush generator and a regulator. David Bentley 06-05-2012 @ 4:59 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Mar 2010 Supereal Your suspicion about too much voltage seems to be checking out correctly. Thing is,is it was fine,or so it seemed, before the new harnesses. I guess I will take it and have it checked out ? I am getting readings north of 10 volts when I check it the way you described. Could it be the cut out ? I did connect the new harness wire back to it and is there a chance I could have over tightened the terminal screw? One more question...the yellow wire going to the cut out has 7.2 or so volts going to it without the engine on or the switch on. Is this correct ? This message was edited by David Bentley on 6-5-12 @ 5:40 PM David Bentley 06-05-2012 @ 4:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Mar 2010 Supereal Your suspicion about too much voltage seems to be checking out correctly. Thing is,is it was fine,or so it seemed, before the new harnesses. I guess I will take it and have it checked out ? I am getting readings north of 10 volts when I check it the way you described. Could it be the cut out ? I did connect the new harness wire back to it and is there a chance I could have over tightened the terminal screw? One more question...the yellow wire going to the cut out has 7.2 or so volts going to it without the engine on or the switch on. Is this correct ? This message was edited by David Bentley on 6-5-12 @ 5:40 PM David Bentley 06-05-2012 @ 3:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Mar 2010 That's correct...any good way to do the test described on the voltage regulator mentioned above since I have the cut out? supereal 06-05-2012 @ 3:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The '39 standard uses a cutout, rather than a regulator.

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