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Discussion Topic:
brake light switch
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thirtysixford |
05-19-2012 @ 3:09 PM
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Member
Posts: 211
Joined: Oct 2009
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Just a FYI I bought the same switch RF sells for $40 for $17.50 on eBay from autorewire. Just do a search.
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40cpe |
05-19-2012 @ 9:44 AM
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Member
Posts: 477
Joined: Jan 2010
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Not to have any misconceptions about silicone fluid: It does not apply the same or more pressure to the brakes with less pressure applied at the pedal than any other hydraulic fluid under the same circumstances. Likewise, a switch will operate at the same pressures with any fluid. When the fluid migrates to the switch side of the diaphragm is when the switch requires abnormally high pressure to operate.
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fordmerc |
05-19-2012 @ 5:08 AM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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Follow-up: I replaced the old switch with a low-pressure switch from Ron Francis: PHENOMENAL DIFFERENCE!! Now a light tap on the pedal lights up the lamps. Based on all comments, a low pressure switch seems essential with silicone fluid.
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37 Coupe |
05-11-2012 @ 6:37 AM
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Posts: 362
Joined: Oct 2009
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While I was ordering wiring from Tyree Harris I had him make up two short jumpers,probably 6 " long or so,green that connected to my original brake switch terminals and the Ron Francis switch. This so I didn't have to cut or alter my new wiring.
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41fatso |
05-11-2012 @ 5:55 AM
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Posts: 8
Joined: Mar 2011
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I am a strong advocate of silicone brake fluid, as I have used it in my 41 deluxe coupe for 14 years. I've never had to service my brake system other than change brake shoes occasionally. My car is regularly driven. I too have had the problem with my brake light switch. Ron Francis seems to be the way to go in getting a new switch. Which I plan to do. Thank you all for your help.
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supereal |
05-09-2012 @ 9:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The terminals on the wires may have to be adapted, but that isn't a big deal. When you buy the switch, ask for the mating plug, if you don't have an assortment of terminals on hand. The switch is a simple "normally open" type, so the orientation of the connections isn't important.
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51f1 |
05-08-2012 @ 5:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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But the Harley switch has a different type of connector.
Richard
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supereal |
05-08-2012 @ 10:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The key to your problems is likely the "new" switch. The foreign made switches are prone to problems, if they work at all. You are right about silicone fluid being a headache. A good replacement switch is the one used on Harley Davidson motorcycles. It is silcone proof, and seems to operate at a lower pressure than the standard switch.
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TomO |
05-08-2012 @ 7:28 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7263
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have been using DOT 5 for over 30 years and I use the stop light switch from NAPA. They work well for about 5-8 years and then I have to change it. If you have a new switch, I suspect that you may have a small amount of air still in your system. DOT 5 gets very small bubbles of air in it that are hard to bleed out. When I do a repair on the brake system, I bleed all of the visible air and then let the car sit for a couple of days to let the air settle into larger bubbles and bleed the system again.
Tom
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Stroker |
05-08-2012 @ 6:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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fordmerc: Yeah, I agree that it is not intuitive. I have never used silicone fluid, as I have heard that on a frequent "driver", it is less lubricious; leading to premature wear of the brake cylinder and master cylinder cups. I've never sawed a brake switch apart, but I'd assume it only contains a diaphragm. Perhaps you simply got a bum switch with a pinhole in the diaphragm. The only good thing I've heard about silicone is that it is non-hygroscopic.
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