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Discussion Topic:
1940 ford pick up front spring demension
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TomO |
05-05-2012 @ 8:10 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Stroker, I cannot give you the spring specs, but can tell you that the front spring was the same for all body styles of the 85 HP chassis. There were 2 front springs available for the 38 cars, P/N 78-5310-C, which is an 11 leaf spring and 78-5310-D which is a 12 leaf spring for extremely rough roads. The rear spring for the SW is a 14 leaf spring P/N 78-5560-D.
Tom
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Stroker |
05-04-2012 @ 4:56 PM
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All: Thank You for the great input. I will probably seek a NOS spring, but I'd like to know what the original spec's were, as I think Station Wagons were different than say, coupes.
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trjford8 |
05-04-2012 @ 8:44 AM
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Stroker, I use a lot of Chassis Engineering products on my old Fords. They produce great products, but they are not original. There would definitely be a difference between their springs and the original equipment. If you are not concerned about originality I would use the CE spring. If you want to be original then look for a NOS spring. Check your club roster for Louis Cote' in Nevada. I suspect he would have a NOS spring.
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supereal |
05-03-2012 @ 10:25 AM
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I once had a garage just a half block from Chassis Engineering where I kept my '47 convertible. The guys from CE would come over to measure parts of the chassis to be sure they were identical to the original. They are sticklers for accuracy, and do a nationwide business, mostly with the street rodders.Their website is www.chassisengineeringinc.com
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TomO |
05-03-2012 @ 8:40 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Stroker, check out the NOS Ford parts suppliers for a NOS Ford spring. It will give you a better ride than the aftermarket springs.
Tom
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supereal |
05-02-2012 @ 10:17 AM
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I've seen a lot of spring "boosters" that were sold as aftermarket cures for weak or overloaded springs. They usually consisted of a strong coil spring connected to ends of the vehicle spring with curved brackets that just slipped on. Then the eye bolts that went to each end of the coil spring were cinched up. I even found one on a scale model of a '40 pickup from Danbury Mint in my collection. Lots of these "crutches" were sold by Western Auto and other plces to help keep the vehicles running during the war when new ones were unavailable. Another is the breather tube that carried blowby under the car so the smoke was not choking the driver.
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Stroker |
05-01-2012 @ 4:04 PM
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Posts: 1460
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Super & Kube: I checked the site in West Branch, and it appears that for less that $150 bucks, my troubles could be solved. For some reason, it seems like dad always had front spring issues on his 38 wagon. His solution was a Helwig "stabilizer", which basically put the spring in a "bind" by drawing the eyes together via an auxiliary s-shaped, 2-part main leaf that was adjusted with horizontal U-bolts that acted to pull the eyes together. Interesting piece, and after driving this car off and on since the mid-50's, I will attest that it worked. I have kept this "crutch", as it is a period correct accessory, and will probably re-install it on my new front spring just to fake out those who have never seen one. Dan
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kubes40 |
05-01-2012 @ 1:06 PM
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I side strongly with the folks that suggest you find a new spring. Re-arced springs even when done correctly will not keep their "lift" as new one would. Remember the steel is old, has become brittle and is fatigued. there is no way around that. NOS springs can be had. Easier yet is finding NOS main leaves.
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supereal |
05-01-2012 @ 11:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
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Dan: I'd opt for a new spring. Most old ones have wear pockets, and plenty of metal fatigue. Since you live close, you could try Chassis Engineering at West Branch. Last time I was there, they had racks of springs.
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Stroker |
05-01-2012 @ 7:07 AM
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Posts: 1460
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Tom: I'll check that out. My problem with going with a truck shop is that neither they nor I would have a clue as to what the original arch should be. Thanks for the info! Dan
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