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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Getting an engine to hold an idle

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Discussion Topic: Getting an engine to hold an idle

rabshire5

12-13-2009 @ 2:03 PM

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The car is a 1935 Tudor and I need to get the engine to hold an idle. I have cleaned and adjusted the points to .014, cleaned the plugs and cleaned the carburetor. The engine runs fine on the road. I have adjusted the idle up so that it will continue running. When I adjust the idle down it wants to idle lower and stop running. I have not checked the timing and I do not know what the adjustment screw and lock not are for on the side of the distributor where the vacuum is attached.

51f1

12-13-2009 @ 3:35 PM

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A worn hole that the throttle butterfly shaft passes through on the carburetor, the shaft itself or both will cause this problem.

Richard

BERTHA

12-14-2009 @ 7:17 AM

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I agree, it sure sounds like a vacuum leak. You can try spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid around carb, manifold, hoses etc. and watch for an increase/decrease in rpm.

supereal

12-15-2009 @ 9:46 AM

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The best way to diagnose an engine problem, particularly a rough idle, is by using a vacuum gauge. They aren't expensive, and with a good chart, you will quickly determine where the problem is.

lightflyer1

12-15-2009 @ 4:22 PM

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Harbor Freight $12.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93547

Pauls39

12-15-2009 @ 7:49 PM

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The timing shound be set with on a distributor machine or a K.R.Wilson type fixture. The locking screw next to the vacuum line is a vacuum brake which will limit your total advance. Back the screw out till the engine pings (spark knocks) under load, then turn it in til the knocking stops. With modern 82 octane fuel it probably won't knock even with the screw backed out all the way.
I agree with the gang, you probably have a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft.

supereal

12-17-2009 @ 7:44 AM

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In most cases, timing has little to do with idle control, unless it is very badly out of adjustment. This is not unusual in engines with the "post hole" type distributor, where you can be off a tooth in the drive gear, but the flathead set up is virtually foolproof with the offset direct drive. With today's fuels, the slider on the side of the distributor has very little, if any, effect. If the throttle shaft isn't wobbling in the carb body, check the vacuum line to the distributor and the wipers. It is possible that the intake manifold gasket is leaking, but that isn't usual, but cracked and/or broken vacuum lines are. Also, substitute a known good condenser.

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