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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / spring shackles

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Posted By Discussion Topic: spring shackles     supereal 12-06-2011 @ 11:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree with Dan and Alan. Finding quality parts today has become much like the proverbial "hens teeth". Now that NOS parts are largely used up, and salvage yards few, the production has largely been sent "off shore", except for some places such as Drake and Carpenter. Even those sources have moved toward the "street rod" market to stay afloat. We try to recommend the best quality vendors we patronize. I know it would be helpful to post a list of those to be avoided, but in today's litigious atmosphere, it would be dangerous. If you find a good source, let them know you appreciate them, and why. 40 Coupe 12-06-2011 @ 3:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1679 Joined: Oct 2009 The best way to clean out the hole for a 36 Ford is with a 3/4" hand reemer. Using the reemer will give you the perfect size hole, it will also tell you if the hole is oblong and where it is out of shape. If it is out of shape it can be repaired with a plastic steel such as "Devcon" and then using the reemer again it can resize the hole properly. The shackel pin is NOT 3/4", it is made larger about 0.754" to form a press fit and to keep the pin held tightly in the hole. Pounding on any of the pins will result in damage to the pin. They need to be pressed into the hole with even pressure on all sides of the metal jacket. In order to press them in a special tool is used that exerts the pressure on the outside of the metal jacket and not on the threaded center bolt. Take a look at K R Wilson catalog and there are photos of both types of the inserting hand press pictured. ford38v8 12-05-2011 @ 6:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2765 Joined: Oct 2009 Dan, you may have a good idea there, but I question the ability of the club to administer a program of testing while remaining a volunteer driven club. We have just a very small handful of employees, not counting the printing and distribution of the V8 Times, of course, as those tasks are farmed out to contractors. I don't think we could be the same club, as such a program would seriously challenge our mission. What would work and does work, is a member driven list of approved vendors and services. This would be a totally unpaid, unsolicited, voluntary posting of contacts that have been reccomended by members. No testing, no warranty, no seal opf approval other than the listing itself, which would be subject to challenge by members who had problems with the product or vendor. Such lists exist. R.G. #1 maintains one on it's website. I'm sure there are others who do the same. Our website is intended for use by any and all, with exception of our Newsletter, which is available only to our members. Our Resources Page is accessible to all, and is open for recommendations and challenges. This is a low key, low maintainance, no hassle win/win for both members and vendors. We don't intend to get into any controversies or investigations or testing. We think this is a good way to enhance our validity as a club, providing a valuable service to our members at no cost to either member or club. Alan Stroker 12-05-2011 @ 3:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Ya know, after reading the trials and tribulations of good folk who have experienced fit, finish, and functionality problems with aftermarket components, it may be time to send a message to those purveyors of imported landfill bulk. Perhaps if the Club is concerned about finances; (see 35-36 pickup book discussions), maybe a good fundraiser would be to do a "Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval" thing. We'd charge for the EFV8CA "blessing", and the major hobby suppliers would receive it if the part "fits", "works","is durable" and is historically correct. I can see it now.... a nice EFV8CA blessing decal on selected items in the catalogs. I grew up in a world where cultivating nice old rural Ford dealers for ancient parts was the best we had. Later, we had Hemmings, which today serves mainly as notice of the latest auction. I subscribe, but it's not the resource it was in the 70's. There are some really great products and services out there, and our club has done a wonderful job of disseminating it. Maybe we need to get credit. supereal 12-05-2011 @ 2:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Be sure you have all of the old shackle bushings out of the spring eyes. We remove them with a muffler cutter chisel in an air gun, but you can string a hacksaw blade thru the hole and cut them to make removal easier. We use the Teflon replacements, and they usually go in without a problem. In this day and age, the quality of the shackles is suspect, and you may have to send them back if they are oversize. If you have to hammer them in, they are wrong. c-gor 12-05-2011 @ 2:50 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 130 Joined: Oct 2009 Having replaced spring shackle studs a few years ago, I can suggest the following: Please Note; The new spring shackle studs (ones available today)do not have the strength as the old ones (NOS). If you try to press them in the metal surrounding the shackle bolt will probably collapse (happened to me). What Worked for Me: After The Spring shackle hole was cleaned out (I cleaned it using a sharp metal scr*per then used heavy grit sandpaper to clean it out) I measured the ID of the hole and OD of the shackle. The shackle was chucked into a lathe and enough material (not too much) was removed from the OD to provide a medium press fit. The shackle was then lubricated with oil and pushed in. j.grif 12-05-2011 @ 2:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 98 Joined: Oct 2009 Hello folks, Could use some ideas of how to install the shackle studs in a 36. So far have not found a good rotary file or reamer to clean out the holes so the studs could be pushed in. The old pounding trick is not working. Maybe heat-but there is the fuel tank. Thanks

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