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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Thermostats

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Thermostats -- page: 1 2     doning 09-16-2011 @ 3:25 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 158 Joined: Nov 2009 Thanks super. supereal 09-16-2011 @ 10:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 That's normal. The thermostats can only stem the coolant flow until they open. After that, the job is taken over by circulation of the coolant and radiator. The thermostats do provide a slight bit of back pressure in the system. That lessens the formation of steam in the engine. Any vapor in the block or heads lessens the cooling considerably. There are "water wetters" which reduce surface tension of the coolant that do the same thing. doning 09-16-2011 @ 9:05 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 158 Joined: Nov 2009 Since we are on the subject of engine operating temps, I have 160 deg. thermostats in my 85 HP 1937 Ford. On a nice day the car will be around 160 when going right along. If I'm at a light or waiting on traffic the temp will climb pretty rapidly almost to around 200 but as soon I start moving along again the temp drops rapidly too. Any concern? J.A.Miller 09-16-2011 @ 6:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Aug 2011 I bought a infared thermometer last year and they are nice for sorting out cooling problems. You just aim the laser dot at what you want to check and it gives you a reading. You can check upper and lower radiator tank temps, water pump temps, head temps etc, doing no more than pointing and clicking. Gives you a lot of info without even turning a wrench. They are pretty cheap too, mine was like $30. joe b 09-16-2011 @ 6:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 389 Joined: Oct 2010 Thanks everyone for the responses and ideas. I'll do some temp checking etc. and report back supereal 09-15-2011 @ 1:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I suspect that 99% of all V8'ers wish they had that problem. The old car hobby really isn't ideal for those who obsess easily. These old machines are tough, as proved by surviving for decades, often with minimum service. "Idiot lights" and gauges without numbers have become the norm today to lighten the load of trying to decipher engine indications. If you see smoke or steam, you've got a problem. Otherwise. sit back and have fun! TomO 09-15-2011 @ 1:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Do you have the 37-48 thermostats or the 49-53 thermostats? The 49-53 thermostats just fit the top of the outlet and the earlier ones completely cover the opening. The 37-48 thermostats should not tip in the hoses, but the 49-53 will. The later thermostats will not completely block off the opening and will allow the coolant to circulate when closed. Tom 51f1 09-15-2011 @ 12:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 I have a later model Flathead (8RT) that runs great temperature-wise, but it will easily get up to 165 any day of the year. If your temperature does not get up to 165 F., there is something wrong with what you are measuring your temperature with. There's no standard Flathead in the world that will operate below 165. Get another temperature gauge and check yours against it. Usually the cheapest temperature gauge you can buy will do. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 9-15-11 @ 12:45 PM joe b 09-15-2011 @ 10:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 389 Joined: Oct 2010 I have a mechanical Stewart Warner temp gauge. I have also tested all the different thermostats in hot water against the coolant temp. The thermostats have "to engine" or similar markings, so I know they are oriented. J.A., I am not complaining by any means. Just curious. supereal 09-15-2011 @ 9:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Check the stats by placing them in a pan of water on the stove, along with a candy thermometer, or other type, that registers at least 200 degrees. With the burner on, watch both the stats and the thermometer to see when they open. Temp ratings on stats are often incorrect when compared with the "real world". Check the temp of the coolant with a thermometer in the radiator filler to compare where the gauge reads. Gauges are not precision instruments, and can vary widely. The Ford system monitors only the side with the single terminal sender. The two terminal side operates to open only when the coolant reaches the boiling point. To secure the stats in the upper hoses, place an additional hose clamp on the outside of each hose to hold the rim of the stat in place. Also, be sure you have the bellows part of the stats facing the engine, not the radiator, or the opening temperature will be affected.

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