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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / hey supereal

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jerry weiser
08-22-2011 @ 8:00 AM
Member
Posts: 85
Joined: Jun 2010
          
hey supereal; one more question, yes my alt has two wires from it. one to ignition, one to battery. ign switch shuts off everything connected to it. how do i test alt w/ 2 wires? does battery wire spark test still work? can it still be bad diode?

weezer

supereal
08-22-2011 @ 11:29 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you disconnect the wire to the ignition switch, it should turn the alternator off, and no sparking should be seen at the output terminal of the alternator. I say "should" because the adaptation of alternators for 6 volts is done by various methods. The diodes are set up in a "bridge" configuration. If one shorts to ground, it will burn up. If it goes open, output usually drops off, and the output becomes an irregular wave, instead of a constant flow of direct current. Your two wire unit is a better design than the common one wire type, as it is turned on and off to match the operation of the engine. Without actually seeing the alternator, I have no way of knowing what is used to produce the cutout necessary to prevent running the battery down when the car is not running. It can be as simple as a high current diode, a SCR (silicon controlled rectifier), or a relay, but it should be disconnected from the battery when not in use.

daves1935
02-18-2013 @ 5:33 PM
Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Mar 2010
          
Hi, This is my first post, coming to you as you appear very active and informed. I'm troubleshooting a starting and misfiring problem with a 39 engine, rebuilt 1000 miles ago before I acquired it in a 1935 phaeton. The last few attempts at starting , the engine turns over but won't start. I can push start down a hill but the engine misfires and stalls. Last time it started via starter, after 5 minutes it backfired and stalled, and required a tow home.(no hills around!) Prior to this it started first time and ran fine, though after the engine ran 1/2 an hour and was warm she was slow to start so I adjusted the float which worked 10 times for restarts but now I am at this juncture. Any suggestions where to start? Thanks, David

supereal
02-18-2013 @ 6:06 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
First, thank you for your kind words. As with many who post here, I am an old guy who has made most of the mistakes. We hope you will post here often.

As to your problem, to run, an engine must have three things: fuel, compression, and ignition or spark. My best guess is that the carb is dirty or unadjusted. When you pump the throttle, you should see two jets of fuel as you look down into the carb. If not, remove the fuel line from the carb and place the end in a container. Run the starter to see whether a steady stream of gas is produced. If not, the pump is bad, or the gas tank is full of dirt and/or rust. If you hold a sparkplug wire close to the head with the ignition on, it should produce a strong, blue spark as the engine is cranked. It is almost sure that the points, condenser, and coil will need replacement, in any case. A compression test will provide an understanding of the mechanical condition of the engine. These are simple things to look at, and my best guesses without actually seeing the car. If you need assistance beyond that, tell us your general location, and we may be able recommend help from a member close by.

This message was edited by supereal on 2-18-13 @ 6:10 PM

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