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Posted By Discussion Topic: Oil leak problem - '48 - 59AB -- page: 1 2     swmddo 08-20-2011 @ 8:51 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Ugh...After spending lots of time (and $$) getting the block back in shape and installed, I now find that the seal where the transmission goes into the engine is leaking (badly!) I have a friend who says that all (ha!) we need to do is pull the rear end out, and either replace or re-seat the seal...i.e. I don't have to pull the engine. Is this correct? I've pulled the rear out several times, so I am familiar with how to do it. One question though...how did the seal NOT seat properly? Was it when I installed the engine and mated it up to the transmission? Thanks Steve supereal 08-20-2011 @ 11:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Not to replow old ground, but are you sure it is motor oil, and not oil from the transmission? Did you trim the ends of the rope seal when you installed it? Is the cork pan seal in place? Did you check around the oil pressure sender? Did you have the cover plate off the oil pump gear box behind he flywheel? I've seen leaks from all those places. The crank seal is rarely affected by the installation of the transmission. If you are positive that the leak is around the crank seal, pulling the engine makes the job easier, as the pot metal rope holders will have to come out, and should be sealed at the ends when replaced. swmddo 08-20-2011 @ 11:49 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks, Bob. When it is under load, the oil seems to be coming fast...and to think of it, the oil looks lighter in color and seems thinner. I don't see any oil from where the oil pressure sender is. I did put the cork gasket on the oil pan properly and torques it per the manual. I did remove the cover plate from the oil pump, but was very careful in putting things back just as tahey should. If, in fact, this IS transmission oil, what is most likely the problem, and will pulling the tranny allow me to fix the problem? Steve supereal 08-20-2011 @ 1:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve: The report that the oil seems to leak worse as pressure builds would seem to eliminate the transmission as a source. There isn't a seal, as such, in the front of the transmission. It relies on a slinger. If it leaks badly, it would point to overfilling. Same is true of the engine, which will leak badly if there is too much oil in the pan. I assume that the oil is coming out of the hole on the bottom of the clutch cover. I mentioned the oil pressure sender, as I've seen them leak under pressure, with the oil running down the back of the engine and dripping off at the weep hole. The common cause of a rear crank leak is either trimming the rope seal istead of forcing it into place, which expands it, or lack of sealer at the ends of the ropes, or where the holders part. There is plenty of oil pressure at the rear main. You mentioned that "the seal where the transmission goes into the engine" is leaking. As said, the only seal at the rear of the engine is the crank seal. If it is leaking, it has to come out from the engine side of the flywheel. If it comes out of the transmission, the clutch would be covered. swmddo 08-20-2011 @ 1:45 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, I need to check the exact location(s) of the leak(s). I saw SOME oil seeping from the weep hole at the bottom of the clutch cover, and some from between the clutch cover and the main block...I did trim the seal some, but it was a bear putting in even then. So this apparently means I need to pull the engine again, and put in a new seal...ugh... Thanks Steve 37RAGTOPMAN 08-20-2011 @ 3:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 some of the trans oils are to thin, and will leak out, make sure the trans is not overfull to start with, Macs AUTO PARTS SELLS A 600W it says it does not bother brass or bronze parts.says from 1909-1948 I do not this really 600 w, but a little thicker then the suff you get at the local parts store, I have a old 64 Jeep CJ5 and even with new seals and bearing,, it still has a drip,using this oil 90-140 my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPAMN I just got the catalog to see what is availible. swmddo 08-20-2011 @ 5:18 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks. The transmission was fine before I pulled the engine. Never had a problem there. This leaking did not start when I first put the engine back in. It's only been in the last several weeks. I've only driven it a few miles since the rebuild, and the leaking is worse every time I take it out. Steve JM 08-20-2011 @ 6:39 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, here's a thought to keep in mind. There is a small threaded plug in the back of the engine called an oil galley plug that sometimes gets forgotten (read left out) on an engine rebuild. If this plug is not in place you will get a lot of oil coming out the rear of the engine in the areas you mentioned. If that happens to be the problem, it's a lot easier to put a plug in that hole than it is to replace a rear main seal. JM This message was edited by JM on 8-21-11 @ 4:52 AM swmddo 08-20-2011 @ 6:57 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 JM, thanks. I think I remember putting that plug in, but it possibly came loose...will check it again. I say that, as at first, I had no leak or drip, and then it progressively got worse. Steve swmddo 08-21-2011 @ 4:02 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 OK, guys...so it appears I really need to pull the engine and remove/replace that rear seal packing. Other than the recommendations to NOT trim the ends AND seal the ends, is there anything else I should think of? Perhaps I should have opted for the one-piece that goes into the seal itself... Thanks again. I will let you know how it goes... Steve

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