LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Oil filter installation for 40 Ford ?

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Oil filter installation for 40 Ford ? -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

bwhitworth
08-20-2011 @ 7:04 AM
Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Nov 2010
          
I have purchased a used oil filter canister and want to install it on my 40 Ford V8. I don't know where to connect the inlet and outlet lines to the block.
Where on the block do I connect the oil lines and which line goes to which?

40 Coupe
08-20-2011 @ 7:29 AM
Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I believe your wasting your time, just change your oil every 6 Months or 1,000. miles which ever comes first. The filter is a "by-pass" type. Meaning that just some of the oil will pass through the filter, unlike a "full-flow" where all of the oil from the pump passes through the filter before going to the bearings. In 1940 Ford offered only as an option (additional cost) a by-pass oil filter.


TomO
08-20-2011 @ 7:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 7252
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The canister is mounted on 3 studs near the front of the engine. The input (fitting on the side of the canister) is connected to the fitting at the back of the block, under the oil pressure sender. The output in 1940 was connected to a special bolt on the fuel pump stand or a special bolt for the distributor mount.

See the drawing for the later installation instructions.

Tom

supereal
08-20-2011 @ 8:43 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The filter output can also be connected to a special dipstick boss, or simply tapped into the oil pan in a convenient place. The main advantage of these oil filters is having an extra quart of oil in the system. Filtering is only partial in the old style system.

ford38v8
08-20-2011 @ 10:23 AM
Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom, You are correct in the installation, however, also correct for 1940 was the hollow bolt at the distributor. This change was made to prevent oil from blowing out the vent at the fuel pump.

Alan

kubes40
08-20-2011 @ 11:32 AM
Senior
Posts: 3396
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I am only speculating you have an 85 or 95 HP engine... if so here's some more details about the authentic installation:

One design of filter assembly was offered for the 85 and 95 horsepower engines. Its part number was
01A-18658-A. Ford’s supplier was the Fram Corporation of Rhode Island.
The filter housing was vertically mounted to the left cylinder head above and between the number 5 and number 6 cylinders. The fasteners consisted of three special 350710-S7 nuts. This assembly used a replaceable filter element.
Both the housing body and cover were painted gloss black. Formed into the bottom of the housing were seven ribs. The 01A-18691 bolt that retained the steel cover had a plain finish. A copper flat washer was beneath that bolt.
A red, yellow, black, and gold decal was placed on the cover. It indicated that the filter was manufactured exclusively for Ford by the Fram Corporation and used a replacement cartridge filter with part number
01A-18662.

The inlet to the housing was on its right side and near the bottom. This threaded hole received a 90º brass fitting, part number 01A-18672 for the inlet hose. Directly below that fitting was a decal that simply said “INLET”. At the center and very bottom of the housing was a threaded hole that received a non-90° brass fitting. This hole and fitting were used, along with two different hoses and routings, to return filtered oil to the engine. Just to the front (left) of this bottom fitting was yet another threaded hole. This drain hole was fitted with a brass hex head plug.
The inlet (pressure) and outlet (return) hoses were made from an oil resistant compound and covered with a black lacquered braided cloth whose outside had a rough finish. The AC Spark Plug Company supplied these hoses to Ford. All fittings, with one exception, were brass swivel type. The exception was the late production return hose which had a “banjo” fitting on one end.
Pressure Hose Routing:
While there were two different routings of the oil return hose described below, there was but one routing for the pressure hose. Its description is next.
The pressure hose threaded into a special angled brass reducing elbow fitting, part number 01A-18669. The fitting threaded into the horizontal hole near the oil pressure sending unit. From there the hose was routed forward near the bottom row of cylinder head studs and attached to the inlet fitting on the right side of the filter housing. A cadmium plated clamp which was placed beneath the cylinder head stud between and just below cylinders number 7 and number 8, held this hose in place. A 27081-S screw and 34141-S nut held the two pieces of the clamp around the hose. There were two designs of this particular clamp. One design had a slot while the other had a hole.
First Routing of the Return Hose:
Next are a few details of these parts in the order that oil flowed through them.
1) The angled fitting at the very bottom and center of the filter housing (H in the picture). The angle between the female and male threads of this fitting was a little less than 90 degrees so that the hose, which was threaded into the fitting, pointed slightly upward as it left the filter housing. Its initial path was parallel to the front axle underneath.
2) The hose passed through the hole in the rear of the filter housing bracket. A rubber grommet in this hole insulated the hose against abrasion.
3) The hose turned toward the fuel pump and was on top of the left spark plug wire conduit.
4) A cadmium plated clamp (D in the picture) held the hose to the left spark plug wire conduit.
A 26515-S2 screw and 34129-S2 nut held the two pieces of the clamp around the hose.
5) The line terminated by threading into a special bolt/fitting, part number 01A-18661-(C in the picture), that had replaced the left fuel pump mounting bolt.
This first routing was the more common of the two since it was used from the beginning of 1940 production until the very end of April, 1940.

Second Routing of the Return Hose
Most of the parts for the second routing of the oil return line appear in the right half of the previous picture. Next are the details of these parts in the order that oil flowed through them.
1) The angled fitting at the very bottom and center of the filter housing (H in the picture). The angle between the female and male threads of this fitting was a little less than 90 degrees so that the hose, which was threaded into the fitting, pointed slightly upward as it left the filter housing. Its initial path was parallel to the front axle underneath.
2) The hose passed through the hole in the rear of the filter housing bracket. A rubber grommet in this hole insulated the hose against abrasion.
3) The hose turned toward the radiator and was on top of the left spark plug wire conduit.
4) The hose turned right. It passed through a cadmium plated clamp (G in the picture), placed beneath the washers of the generator mounting stud, that secured the hose in place. A 27081-S screw and 34141-S nut held the two pieces of the clamp around the hose.
5) The hose ended with a “banjo” fitting (F in the picture) at the base of the distributor. A special hollow bolt (E in the picture) replaced the lower right distributor housing bolt. With a copper gasket placed on each side of the “banjo” fitting, a leak free seal was attained.
This second routing took effect at the very beginning of May, 1940.

Hope this description with the accompanying photo is helpful.

Mike Kubarth


bwhitworth
08-20-2011 @ 12:16 PM
Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Nov 2010
          
Thanks Tom, the drawing was a big help.

ford38v8
08-20-2011 @ 1:08 PM
Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have the distinct feeling that Kube's '40 Ford Book will have no trouble continuing the recent high quality of the Club's books.

Alan

JM
08-20-2011 @ 6:10 PM
Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Mike (Kubes40), weren't there special brass fittings, placed on the input lines at the canister, that had a restrictive inner diameter that was necessary to maintain a certain level of oil pressure in the oiling system? If so, shouldn't those fittings and their special ID be specified in these oil filtering systems you are describing here and also specified in the new 40 book?

JM

supereal
08-20-2011 @ 8:26 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The restricter goes in the outlet side of the filter. It prevents oil from being bypassed to the extent the system is starved. It can be made by soldering the fitting closed, then drilling a 1/16" hole.

This message was edited by supereal on 8-21-11 @ 11:49 AM

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1