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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Drake 81A-9002 38-40 fuel tank in a late 37

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Drake 81A-9002 38-40 fuel tank in a late 37 -- page: 1 2     rlh37ford 08-04-2011 @ 11:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 28 Joined: Oct 2009 Guys: I wish to thank you for taking your valuable time to respond to my fuel tank questions. The inputs from 37 & 38 owners has been invaluable. They have lead me to the decision to drop my original tank and give cleaning & related restoration a try. The possibilities of success outweigh the negatives with the new tank I originally asked about. Thank you VERY much for you experiences & recommendations. You can look for me back here again with more requests for guidance. It surely would be great to meet you guys down the road; unlikely as I'm sure everyone is all over the country; but it would be a nice experience to talk face to face. Many thanks. ~Dick 37RAGTOPMAN 08-04-2011 @ 9:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1969 Joined: Oct 2009 you just tumble it in all directions, you mask the filler and sending unit hole, you can remove masking tape to inspect. Snyders antique auto sells a sealer, part number A9002 $25.00 a Quart, www.snydersantiqueauto.com order a catalog, I did not buy mine here but cannot remember were I did probably bought at a flea market, the steel 5/16 nuts will remove a lot of stuck on junk,and are easy to remove when you are ready, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN rlh37ford 08-03-2011 @ 7:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 28 Joined: Oct 2009 37RAGTOPMAN: I realize it's been over 30 years since you sloched your tank with sealer after having it soaked at a radiator shop & there are likely newer, effective sealants that will do the trick. But, do you recall what you used for sealant back in the day. Also, did you simply roll the tank to move the sealant around and hopefully get it on the entire interior surface? Also, did the radiator shop do anything other than soak the tank & then empty it? Thanks, again. trjford8 08-03-2011 @ 7:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4236 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom, you are correct about using the Drake sending unit. The hole in the tank will not allow the use of the stock sender. The Drake unit did not work at first and after some investigation I found a bad solder joint where the sending unit wire connects to the stud at the top of the unit. Once I resoldered the wire it seems to work fine. I am running 12 volts with Mustang CVR attached to the guage. TomO 08-03-2011 @ 7:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 If you install the Drake tank, you will have to install the inferior sending unit being sold as a replacement or modify the tank to accept the original sending unit. Tom trjford8 08-02-2011 @ 8:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4236 Joined: Oct 2009 I installed the Drake tank in my 37 coupe about a year ago. I replaced the original tank with the threaded neck as it was full of nasty looking crud. Here's what I found when installing the tank. The tank needs to be dented inward just below the frame flange in order to get enough room to install the tank with the body on the frame. Unless they have changed the design you will have to dent the tank. Once dented, I had to use a pry bar to get the tank towards the left side in order for the right side flange to clear the frame rail. Once it was in it was easy to bolt up the tank to the frame. I had a stock 37 fuel neck that was used with the later 37 tank. When installing the neck to the tank with the rubber sleeve I found that the stock neck sat about 1 inch below the hole on the fender. I wound up using a 38 neck with some modifications to get a fuel neck to stand about 1/2 inch above the hole in the fender. I haven't had a chance to check, but I suspect the hole in the fender with the early tank may be in a different postion than the fender hole for the late tank. Stroker 08-02-2011 @ 4:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 rlh37ford: I have a 38, and I have owned 2 other 38 "parts cars" in the past. All 3 38's had the fuel tank filler neck perpendicular to the centerline of the the car, or "straight-out". I have a spare 38 tank that I plan upon having "boiled-out" (our local truck repair still has a real radiator shop), and I plan on "slushing" it and installing. My existing tank is full of "goop", having sat with old gas since I went overseas in 64. I thought about the Drake option, but it's tough enough changing-out a stock tank, without adding the difficulty of having less clearance to maneuver it. This is especially true on station wagons, as the flat rear floor doesn't give much vertical clearance. I really don't want to have to lift the body off the frame (again). I've also thought about the plastic tanks, as I've heard they are easier to squeeze-in, but I think I'll go with a restored original. Stroker 08-02-2011 @ 4:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 rlh37ford: I have a 38, and I have owned 2 other 38 "parts cars" in the past. All 3 38's had the fuel tank filler neck perpendicular to the centerline of the the car, or "straight-out". I have a spare 38 tank that I plan upon having "boiled-out" (our local truck repair still has a real radiator shop), and I plan on "slushing" it and installing. My existing tank is full of "goop", having sat with old gas since I went overseas in 64. I thought about the Drake option, but it's tough enough changing-out a stock tank, without adding the difficulty of having less clearance to maneuver it. This is especially true on station wagons, as the flat rear floor doesn't give much vertical clearance. I really don't want to have to lift the body off the frame (again). I've also thought about the plastic tanks, as I've heard they are easier to squeeze-in, but I think I'll go with a restored original. TomO 08-02-2011 @ 6:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 Leaks in the tank can be repaired a couple of ways. All of them require a through cleaning of the tank, inside and out. Very small leaks will be sealed by coating the inside of the tank. Next size up can be repaired by soldering the holes AFTER cleaning the tank, so there are no gas fumes Larger holes can have a sheet metal screw diven into the hole and then soldered.. Tom rlh37ford 08-01-2011 @ 6:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 28 Joined: Oct 2009 37RAGTOPMAN: Thanks for the additional info. This helps a lot. My plan will be to drain the tank; go through the removal process using your guidance, inspect the exterior; then go from there. rlh37ford fm PA.

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