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Posted By Discussion Topic: rusty gas tank     Wolfie 11-21-2009 @ 6:51 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 144 Joined: Oct 2009 Yesterday, my 40 Ford stalled twice but restarted each time. When I got home I found that the fuel filter was clogged with rust. Does this indicate that the gas tank is terminal or is there a remedy? Does this tank lift up through the trunk if I have to remove or replace it? deluxe40 11-21-2009 @ 7:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 413 Joined: Oct 2009 I went through this twice in the past few months with a '40 tank. The first tank had about 1/4 inch of varnish in the bottom and pumped a very fine, sticky powder right through the fuel filters to the carburetor. I found a spare that looked good (no rust visible) and had it boiled out at the radiator shop. Three hundred miles later red junk began appearing in the sediment bowl. This time I got a new Bob Drake tank from C&G. When I looked in the second tank it was clear that something had dislodged even after the cleaning. Needless to say, I recommend a new tank. Installation, however, can be a challenge because it's a tight fit. Also the contour of the Drake tank appears to be slightly different on the driver's side. To remove the tank you undo the fuel line, fuel filler pipe and the wires to the fuel gauge sending unit. Then you remove the three bolts holding the tank to the frame. They should be screwed into cage nuts that are attached to the top side of the tank lip. One of the bolts has a spring and maybe a safety wire. Then you move the tank toward the driver's side and lower the passenger side below the frame rail (this is the hard part) and drop it to the ground. You might have to unbolt the exhaust pipe. When installing the new tank we had to modify the sheet metal on the driver's side fender well to allow the new tank to move that way far enough to clear the frame rail on the passenger side. We also had to modify one of the cage nuts because we couldn't get all three bolts to go in the way they were. Thus, the new tank was definitely harder to install than the used tank. My American Austin also has the same problem. However, there are no replacement tanks available and originals are very scarce. My Austin friends tell me to use Bill Hirsch's cleaner/etch/coating products (www.hirschauto.com). Several of the club members have done this over many years and all report success. I'm currently still trying to get all of the junk out of the tank, so I can't yet report results on this method. Wolfie 11-21-2009 @ 8:32 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 144 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks deluxe40 for the information. My trunk has carpet glued in place and I can't see if there is access to the tank. Do you need to work from the top to take the bolts off? 42wagon 11-22-2009 @ 6:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 584 Joined: Oct 2009 Wolfie I thought that deluxe40 pretty well outlined the tank removal procedure. Basically all work is done from under the car except the removal and replacement of the gauge wiring. For that you will need to remove the carpet in the trunk so you can access a little trap door in the trunk floor over the gas gauge sending unit. Keep in mind that the chassis was completely assembled before the body was dropped on it. I believe it may have been assembled upside down and turned over shortly before it reached the point where the engine was installed. If so the tank went in exactly the way it is being suggested to take it out. Those cage nuts are there so you can undo the bolts from the under side. However they may be frozen with rust. If so they will be very difficult to remove. Whether you opt to clean your existing tank or install a new one, the existing tank still has to come out. All the usual suspects seem to sell what is probably the same tank cleaning kit. Various solutions to dissolve the old gas and rust that can only be done properly by turning the tank on its sides, ends, top,etc. Seems to me that the real solution to the problem is a new tank and while you are at it replace the gas line as that is also probably full of sediment and if original ready to rust through. Ted trjford8 11-22-2009 @ 8:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4215 Joined: Oct 2009 Wolfie, Ted and Glenn gave you good advice. I've been through this with a 40 and two 37's. I always put a new tank in the car if there is any doubt about the old tank. The problem arises even with a tank that has been cleaned and coated. If someone used the old style coating it may not be Methanol proof and will start to come loose.This creates havoc with all of the fuel system. I have been using the "poly" tanks from a company called "Tanks". If you are not going strictly stock they work great. They install easier than the steel tank, give two extra gallons of capacity,and will never rust.I also agree that you should change your fuel line if you are changing the tank, as it is probaly rusty also. The cost of a new tank is way cheaper that two trips on the tow truck. Wives also don't like to be stuck somewhere on a tour in 90 degree heat waiting for the truck.Telling her to take a deep breath and offering her a cold beer won't make the situation any better! supereal 11-22-2009 @ 9:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom and I are on the same page. Once the "tern" (lead-tin alloy") of the tank is breached, the rust will continue, regardless of the efforts to coat the interior. Unless you are intending to produce a concourse correct car, the plastic tank is the way to go as collector cars spend a great deal of time sitting, which allows accumulated moisture to seek pinholes in the interior of the tank. If you are well heeled, there are stainless tanks available. I've seen too many failures of tanks coated with kits to believe they are worth the time and money. deluxe40 11-22-2009 @ 10:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 413 Joined: Oct 2009 Wolfie, To help avoid pulling up your entire carpet, the small door in the trunk floor used to access the fuel sender is 4" wide x 5" tall. It is located 1 foot from the left fender well and 4 1/4 inches from the front edge of the tool tray on my coupe - which should be similar to your car because coupes and sedans used the same frames and fuel tanks. You could also find the wire from the sending unit to the gauge and cut and splice it. There also may or may not be a ground wire to cut and splice. Wolfie 11-22-2009 @ 5:07 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 144 Joined: Oct 2009 Good advice from all of you. I didn't know there were poly tanks and will check that out too. This site is a wealth of information!

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