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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / holley power valve thread size

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Discussion Topic: holley power valve thread size -- page: 1 2

parrish

06-18-2011 @ 11:34 AM

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My economizer valve threads are stripped on a backup 94. They look to be plumbing thread instead of machine (makes sense). Anybody know the size and the degree of difficulty in cutting new threads in the bowl?

supereal

06-19-2011 @ 10:09 AM

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The power valve does not have pipe threads. If the threads are stripped in the bowl, it is likely the carb is junk. The bowl is of "pot metal", making the threads subject to damage if overtightened. Anyone installing a power valve has to be very careful not to cinch it down hard, or the gasket will be deformed, and leak either fuel or vacuum, in any case. The threads are fine, and the typical "fix" of Helicoiling won't work. Ford is famous for using odd thread pitches, such as 28 instead of the more common 24. When working on an old Ford, be sure to retain all the bolts and fasteners removed, or you will likely have to buy new ones from a specialist.

oldford2

06-19-2011 @ 1:59 PM

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Well, since that portion of the carb may be history, I would take a Q tip and put a light coating of J-B Weld on the inside threads (not too much). Then I would put some light oil on the power valve thread, wipe off the excess and then fill the trheads on the PV with J-B Weld. Then gently screw it in finger tight and let sit for a while. I think when it gets in part way it may follow the stripped threads. Maybe a 1/2 turn out and in after 4 or 5 hours. I have repaired some threads this way. I think J-B Weld is tougher than die cast metal. So, what do you have to lose? John

Stroker

06-19-2011 @ 3:39 PM

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John's method will work, although I've found that over a long period of time (years), JB will succumb to the effects of fuel. A few years ago, Loctite made a product specifically to use
for carburetor thread restoration. The principle and application was just as John described the use of JB.

I'll do a little digging, and see if the product can still be sourced. The "power/economizer" valve is not subject to pressure, and is of course contained within the carb unlike a fuel inlet fitting.

The failure of the threads of ANY FITTING UNDER PRESSURE i.e.: (pump outlet/carb inlet) should never be repaired using these methods,as a pressurized fuel leak is vintage automobile immolation waiting to happen.

Stroker

06-19-2011 @ 4:03 PM

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Loctite 442-28654: (Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kit). Supposed to work in just about any environment except pure oxygen. Again, I wouldn't use it on pressurized fuel fittings!

oldford2

06-19-2011 @ 5:06 PM

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Stroker,
I googled the loctite kit number and ordered a kit from Betty Mills Company. $18 including shipping. Impressive writeup on it's ability to repair stripped threads. Since it is Loc-tite I don't think it is too exaggerated. Anyway, I will have it if I strip a thread and if I can remember where I put it. I am 72 but brain is going on 82.

John

parrish

06-19-2011 @ 7:45 PM

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thanks, everyone. The carb has been sitting in a box since 1970...apparently it hasn't fixed itself yet. I'll give the loctite a shot.

parrish

06-19-2011 @ 8:03 PM

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thanks, everyone. The carb has been sitting in a box since 1970...apparently it hasn't fixed itself yet. I'll give the loctite a shot.

ken ct.

06-19-2011 @ 11:29 PM

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John,In 25 yrs of rebuilding 94,s i have NEVER seen or heard of stripped thread on a PV in one.I for one wouldn't try it. OMO.What say you guys,Charlie,ny,Henry 52,Strom 81,have you ever seen one.??? ken ct.

oldford2

06-20-2011 @ 3:17 AM

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Ken, Have you ever seen the threaded holes that hold the carb sections together stripped? This might work to repair them. John

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