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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '40 steering in a '36 tudor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '40 steering in a '36 tudor

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Flatbob
06-14-2011 @ 9:35 PM
Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom, I'm going to use same setup you have but will keep the stock shocks instead of the "Lovejoys?" you have. Thanks for the info on the steering arms. Bob

flatheadfan
06-14-2011 @ 1:04 AM
Member
Posts: 450
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Flatbob-

You can use a '40-41 sway on your '36 but it is a little more complicated than it appears. If you stay with your '36 axle you will need to bend the swaybar ends inward on both ends to align with the axle pin location of your '36. Second, the '40-'41 axle pin is longer than the '35-'36 so you will need to add about an inch more thread to the pins.

To mount the swaybar you will need to remove one frame rivet and drill one hole on each side for the mounting brackets and then everything bolts together.

However, if you use a '37-'40 axle assembly everyhting slips together easily. Nothing needs to be changed (except the pins on a pre-'40 deluxe axle). Plus, you have the added advantage of the wider wishbone spread that makes removal of the oil pan "somewhat easier" (still a nasty job!). You will also be dropping the front end of the car by about an inch which is visually undetectable to the car's stance.

Obviously, this change will not get you the authentic restorer's "seal of approval" because it is anything but "original." However, from a functional use it does solve a lot of early Ford driving problems. It greatly reduces vehicle sway especially with crosswinds and it also levels out body roll when you make a sharp turn. I have one on my '35 and find the vehicle much much safer and comfortable to drive.

Hope this helps.

Tom

trjford8
06-13-2011 @ 8:59 PM
Senior
Posts: 4237
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The 36 axle is narrower at the wishbone bosses. If you use the 40 axle you will need to use the 40 wishbone to line up the holes for the wishbone pins. You also need to use the 40 steering bracket. It's much easier than trying to modify the 36 bracket.

Flatbob
06-13-2011 @ 7:43 PM
Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Flatheadfan, I do have the '40 mounting bracket. What is the difference between a '36 and the '37-'40 front axle. Since I intend to use the '40 stabilizer bar I would probably want to use a '40 front axle & spring? Thank you for replying.

flatheadfan
06-13-2011 @ 4:59 PM
Member
Posts: 450
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Flat Bob-

You didn't mention it but I am assuming that you will be using a '37-'40 frame bracket. As for the arms...

There are three general types of steering arms that are available. A summary of the three are listed below:

11A-3590 - sharp turn to the right causes the arm to hit the left-hand wishbone. If reinstalled to the next tooth pattern, the drag link will hit the oil pan. Not your best choice!

78A-3590 - This arm has a bend. It will work but you need to grind out some of the "teeth" and use it upside down to get it to clear the wishbone arms. The '37-'40 wishbones have a wider stance than a '35-'36 so,this is not a problem if you are you using a '37-'40 front axle assembly under a '35-'36. Another not you best choice!

48A-3590 - This arm will work fine, however it is approximately 1.25" shorter than the 11A or the 78A. This may cause a minor amount of additional steering effort but it is very minor. This is what I use (and most others) on a '35-'36 car.

Hope this helps.

Tom


ford38v8
06-13-2011 @ 3:26 PM
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Bob, you will also need tyo use the '36 mounting bracket.

Alan

Flatbob
06-13-2011 @ 3:10 PM
Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Stroker, thanks for replying, sounds like I'd better off using the '36 arm, no sense in making it more complicated than it needs to be.

Stroker
06-13-2011 @ 3:04 PM
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Flatbob: If you are doing this swap, I would assume you have both the original 36 and the proposed 40 boxes in front of you. I'd use the 36 arm, simply because you know it is correct to the car, and the steering ratio and geometry won't be compromised. If the 40 arm is shorter (or longer), it could create problems. I'm assuming that the splined arm-to-gearbox attachment holes are the same, and the "blind spline" index point is in the same location relative to the arm. If not, you might have to reconsider your options.

Flatbob
06-13-2011 @ 1:06 PM
Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Am putting a '40 steering box in my '36, would it be necessary or a good idea to use the '40 steering arm in place of the '36 steering arm; is their any difference between the two arms?

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