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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / fuel tank

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Discussion Topic: fuel tank -- page: 1 2

supereal

05-09-2011 @ 7:06 PM

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When the tanks were made they were coated internally with "terne", a combination of tin and lead. When this coating is breached, pinholes appear due to rust. There are lots of coatings that are supposed to seal the holes and be alcohol proof, but I have yet to see any that last very long, in spite of claims. Plastic tanks are immune to rust, and while very expensive, stainless tanks will preserve the original appearance. Anything else is a waste of time and money, in my opinion.

Stroker

05-09-2011 @ 4:01 PM

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Catalina Bay:

I have a 38 Wagon with the original tank. It sat for quite a while after I stored it when I got out of college and moved to a new job. When I brought it home in the mid 70's, I had serious fuel
delivery problems, so decided to pull the tank and have it boiled-out at our local radiator shop.

The problem was, even working over a service pit; I couldn't get it out! Wagons have a low-flat floor, and there is simply not enough vertical clearance to tip the tank enough to remove it without pulling the body off the frame.

Now that I'm retired, I'm back where I left off, and my plan is to acquire a poly tank, and remove
the old one by taking a SawsAll to the flanges on the original. Draconian? Yes, but I'm not pulling the body just to take out the tank.

57 Catalina Bay

05-09-2011 @ 3:03 PM

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Thanks for the continued discussion. I do not have the 39 tank as it was replaced with the Drake model when I got the car. The outlet fitting leaks gas when the tank is full and sucks air when below half. I ran out of gas with 5 gal. in the tank. Right now I am leaning toward returning this tank to the car and seeing if some J-B Weld will seal the outlet problem. I have changed the brass fitting (Ford nut) several times and not stopped the leak.
Failing this I may go with a poly tank until I can find a good original.
In trying to change the tank I found myself with larger issues than the original leak would suggest.

trjford8

05-07-2011 @ 9:53 AM

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I have bought the poly tanks from Yogi's in Iowa, but they are made by "Tank". They go rightn in without any prying. The only 'stickler" is they will not use the stock sending unit.Yogi's does sell a sending unit that will fit the tank and work with the stock gauge. After putting the new steel tank in my 37 and having to "ding' it to make it fit, I will return to using a poly tank in my next project.

TomO

05-07-2011 @ 6:57 AM

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I agree with 37ragtop. The original tank will accept the original sender and save you from the problems that the aftermarket sending units cause. The baffling in the original tanks is also much better than the reproduction tanks.

The new coating from Bill Hirsh is alcohol resistant and will protect the steel from further rust.

Tom

37RAGTOPMAN

05-07-2011 @ 5:50 AM

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what was the problem with the original?
there is a guy that made a tumbler for gas tanks here in MAINE, he fills the tank with 5/16 steel nuts and tumbles the tank and flushes it out with water till it looks clean,, takes a magnet and picks out the nuts then reseals it .
I did this to my 37 tank in 1976 and to this day, have had no problems. I took mine to a raditator shop, they soaked it overnight in their cleaner,which removed most the gunk, when I bought my car it had some gas in it,the gas? was in there for years,
looks like replacement is the LAST RESORT,I think they
made these when you do a body off the chassis restoration,everybody complains about the new tanks,
my 3 cents, 37RAGTOPMAN
if it is not completely shot, I would try a reseal first, its worth the money

kubes40

05-06-2011 @ 4:37 PM

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Hey Pauls39, The tanks CAN be made correctly IF the manufacturer demands that. I am guessing it to be a "back order bob" tank. They fit like poop even though they are advertised to be an exact replacement.

supereal

05-06-2011 @ 12:25 PM

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I have a poly tank made here in Iowa, and it installed without a hitch, except for the struggle with those dratted caged nuts that Ford seemed to like so much. My tank has a "donut" molded in the middle to serve as a baffle. The only tight spot was getting clearance for one of the rear tube shock mounts in my '47. Luckily, the mount clamped to the cross member, and could be moved just enough. The metal tank had a dent in it for that purpose. It didn't look like it had been hammered, but stamped with the tank. Unless you are a purist, I don't know why a poly tank isn't a better choice. With today's oxygenated fuels, rust is an increasing problem unless you lay out big bucks for a stainless tank.

57 Catalina Bay

05-06-2011 @ 8:04 AM

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Thanks again. Trjford8 said the poly tanks fit right in, can you tell me whose poly tank you have had experience with?. I have been looking at Poly tanks this morning and the best looking one I have seen is from Tanks Inc., manufactured in Iowa. A poly tank should have enough flex to fit even if it is a little large.

Pauls39

05-06-2011 @ 12:05 AM

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I had the same problem, too bad they can't be made correctly.
You will need to ding the left side in about 1/4 inch just below the flange. Grind about 1/8 inch off the right side flange, then pry the frameout slightly on the right as you push the tank to the left.
Be sure to check the fuel sending unit opening as it is too small for the original gage. A die grinder will solve that problem. Do it with the tank upside down, then vacuum and rinse to remove any filings.
It took me 20 minutes to remove the 70 year old tank, and 3 hours to install the new one, @*#!!

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