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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Engine Oil and Grease type for 1936 Ford

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Engine Oil and Grease type for 1936 Ford -- page: 1 2     BERTHA 07-03-2011 @ 5:20 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 129 Joined: Nov 2009 http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrf.aspx supereal 06-25-2011 @ 1:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Ken: I'm not familiar with that brand. We buy Rotella by the drum, so I use it when the Castrol runs out. I just bought a full case of 20-50 for about $42 last week. That is enough for two changes, plus a couple of extra quarts. If you use Rotella, it comes in 4 quart jugs, OK for flatheads without a filter, but buy an extra quart if you have one. Diesel oil formulations contain more than enough additives for your car. Diesels run a 17-20 to one compression, so the high stress additives are necessary for them. In general, all brand name oils have what you need. These old engines survived for decades on non-detergent oils with little or no additives, so they should last longer than most of us with today's products and their ingredients. kenburke 06-25-2011 @ 12:09 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 141 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks Super, another question on a similar product to Sh*ll. Ch###on sells DELO another diesel style oil? Yes /no / maybe?? I do not have any second thoughts on Castrol. I thought besides zink there was an issue with the lack of phosphorus in todays oils? Thanks Ken Burke supereal 06-24-2011 @ 6:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The additive, ZDDP, was reduced in oils because they shortened the life of the cat converters. The zinc is important for modern engines with high valve train pressure, and for initial startup after assembly or overhaul. For our old flatheads, it is less important. Genuine Ford camshafts almost never wear flat, as do many modern cams. Any changes, such as unleaded gas, etc, gives the fast buck boys a chance to sell high profit additives. Your flathead will be fine. If you remained unconvinced, use Sh*ll Rotella oil. It is designed for diesel use, and contains lots of high pressure additives. I prefer Castrol 20-50, myself. Your flathead will be fine. kenburke 06-23-2011 @ 8:10 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 141 Joined: Oct 2009 Could someone provide more info concerning that modern oils (Sm & SN) that are sold today lack phosphorous and therefore are not good for tappet engines. Brendan 06-09-2011 @ 5:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 46 Joined: May 2011 i also don't step on the clutch until i see oil pressure after starting Can't spell my way out of a paper bag! bbook 06-06-2011 @ 11:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 30 Joined: Jun 2011 Thanks, Supereal. I will acquire the aftermarket part and give it a try, as you are correct that they aren't expensive. If it is a no go, at least now I understand how to make the fix. keith oh 06-06-2011 @ 1:06 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 116 Joined: May 2010 I have used 5W30 in my flathead since it became avialable. Research shows that 90% of engine wear is in the first couple of min. after starting so the 5 W gets there faster for quicker lubrication. When starting a cold engine I leave the ignition off, do not touch the throttle, and turn it over for 10 to 15 seconds or until you see oil pressure indication then go ahead and start it. I'll not take credit for this, there was a long research article on it, I think it was on Fordbarn a while back. supereal 06-06-2011 @ 10:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Can't be sure it will, but your end plate can be modified by brazing a tube to it that will reach above the oil level. Putting the switch at the bottom of the column certainly wasn't one of Ford's "better ideas". The aftermarket tubes aren't expensive, so you may wish to obtain one to compare with yours. bbook 06-05-2011 @ 11:27 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 30 Joined: Jun 2011 I couldn't find a modified end plate for an early V8, but did find an aftermarket part for the Model A that includes a tube attached to the end plate, running above the oil level (Part #A3568-T). Online pictures look just like my truck's end plate. One online part dealer says it fits '29-'36 and others say '29-'31. Any idea if this will work?

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