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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 35-36 steering box overhaul

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Discussion Topic: 35-36 steering box overhaul -- page: 1 2

danliveshere

04-05-2011 @ 5:25 PM

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40 coupe is rtv a silicone type sealant like permatex? If so how thick do you apply it to the housing face , and why do you apply grease to the sector face?I have 2 36 boxes stripped ready to order parts and the 35 box stripped with all the parts already here. I've found a 11/2" crack in the sector housing of the 35, starts at the u shape for the eccentric adjuster. I'll have to strip another old 35 to get the sector housing rather than weld this up.

40 Coupe

04-05-2011 @ 4:27 AM

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the 35 box uses bushings for the sector shaft and the 36 uses bearings, both have different sector shafts (ratios) and the worm and shaft have to match as far as the ratio is concerned. Nearly all of the boxes leak oil. The large cork gasket for the sealing of the sector housing to the box, in the "Best" gasket kit is not very good. I make my own, set it in RTV on the box side and let it dry, then lube the other sector face with grease and assemble. Both the 35 and 36 sector housings will accept a modern seal. for the shaft.

danliveshere

04-04-2011 @ 1:52 PM

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Very good eye JM, considering how poor my photo is. Yes it's a 39 box. A friend in Australia who's restoring a phaeton as well will email that article to me. I'll get the others stripped down and see what parts are required over the next couple days. Dan.

04-04-2011 @ 1:07 PM

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Dan, You may already know this but in your line up of steering boxes, the first one in the picture is a '38 or '39 steering based on the attached column drop on that one. By changing your '35-'36 steering box mounting plate to a '37 to '41 mounting plate, you could use that later steering for a significant steering improvement. I can't see all of the plate that's attached to that box but I'm guessing it is a '37-'41 plate.
I have looked through my 2010 V8 Club Roster for an article on how to rebuild a '35/'36 steering box and I could not find one. There is mention of something being in the Ford Service Bulletin Book, 1932-1937, Pages 79 to 83, that tells in depth how to adjust '32-'36 steering boxes. There are 4-1/2 pages of information and some large drawings of the worm & sector gears. There is also some how to do adjustments on the steering gear on page 41 and 42 of the Ford 1932 to 1936 Engine & Chassis Repair Manual, V-13. I believe someone else put pictures of these pages up on this post. If I find a "How to Rebuild '35-'36 Steering Box article" I will let you know. Good luck. John

JM

This message was edited by JM on 4-4-11 @ 1:26 PM

danliveshere

04-04-2011 @ 5:41 AM

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I've stripped the 36 box that has the banjo steering wheel on it in the pic. It came apart really easily. Looks like a nice rebuilder, just bearings the rest seems ok. Wish the 35 came apart this easy. will strip the others over the next couple nights and I can order parts for all of them if they are any good. Thanks, Dan.

danliveshere

04-04-2011 @ 2:25 AM

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the 35 box pic.

danliveshere

04-04-2011 @ 1:51 AM

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ok, the 35 box with black rust converter on it, I have the sector removed , really need to know how to pull the worm and steering shaft out of the housing. I have all new components, including nos rhd worm and sector shafts. I have to dismantle the other box to use the housing as this one has a crack and oil leaks. Could cast weld it , but I have the housing. The 2x 36 boxes I've only just started on.. Since I was having so much trouble ,thats why I've posted this forum. The 39 box I'll check it out if it's any good may go into one of the cars. Any tips on pulling the steering wheels off without the correct puller? I'll start soaking them with oil. I've still to drill out the pins to remove the column drops, hope to do them tonight , Thanks, Dan.

RSS

04-03-2011 @ 5:53 PM

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2nd picture.

RSS

04-03-2011 @ 5:51 PM

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I hope this will help when you put it back together.

alanwoodieman

04-03-2011 @ 5:26 PM

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FYI 36 steering boxes are the only ones to have needle bearings to support the pitman arm shaft, all others use brass bushings and as such can be a bear to get apart, you will have to remove this to get the worm out of the box thru the bottom, the cap at the bottom holds the bearings for the worm

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