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Discussion Topic:
heater tube
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46fordnut |
04-03-2011 @ 1:21 PM
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Member
Posts: 332
Joined: Oct 2009
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would anyone know how or where i could find the black heater tubing that goes from the heater to the nozzles up by the windshield ? it for a 1946 ford . second thing i just found out my gas gauge is not reading. but if i take a wire from the wire on the top of float wire to ground. the gauge reads full. tried an after market sender it did nothing .
This message was edited by 46fordnut on 4-3-11 @ 2:28 PM
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Stroker |
04-03-2011 @ 4:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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As an old aircraft mechanic, if it were me, I'd replace these cr*ppy oem hoses with S.C.A.T. tubing. This stuff will last forever, and while it is orange in color, could be painted black if you get into a concourse. From the looks of your ride, I'd guess it is a "driver" like mine. Anyway, this stuff lasts forever, and is far superior to the oem material. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/ducting.html
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joe b |
04-03-2011 @ 5:02 PM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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Mac's Auto Parts offers heater hose and brackets. try them at MacsAutoParts.com it is called Heater Defroster Hose and Brackets. If you have an antique Ford parts dealer in your area I bet they will have it also. Mac's hoses have been on my '41 for many years and is still OK.
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supereal |
04-03-2011 @ 5:11 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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I like Dan's suggestion concerning the heater ducts. The fabric type is available from better vendors if you want to stay with it. As to the gas gauge, since your gauge pegs when the wire is grounded, the problem is the sender. Remove it from the tank and inspect the float to see if it is OK. Some, either brass or plastic can leak and stay at the bottom of the tank. Others have a defective element. This is the part that varies the resistance to the gauge. Be sure the flange of the sender is well grounded. If none of these reveal the problem, there are good universal senders available. If you use one of those, be prepared to adjust the arm to allow a correct, or near correct, gauge reading. You will find the defroster tubing on page 236 of the C&G catalog. That stuff is a bit pricey.
This message was edited by supereal on 4-3-11 @ 5:44 PM
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alanwoodieman |
04-03-2011 @ 5:13 PM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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I use chock stove tubing from my local Carquest, it is aluminum and very easy to paint flat black and it is going to last
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46fordnut |
04-03-2011 @ 5:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 332
Joined: Oct 2009
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oh it's a driver. never been restored.. you can guess what it looks like and really needs. what dia hose is it that i need? 100 horse running wild
This message was edited by 46fordnut on 4-3-11 @ 5:25 PM
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TomO |
04-04-2011 @ 7:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7257
Joined: Oct 2009
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1 3/4" diameter hose for your defroster. Take your original sending unit out of the tank and carefully pry the top off. Examine the wires inside. If they are not broken, you can clean the contacts with a tuner cleaner available at Radio Shack. Check the float by immersing it in water that has just boiled and watch for bubbles. If you see any bubbles coming from the float, order a new float from C&G. If the wires are broken, send the unit to someone that can rebuild it. I don't have any recommendations, try Google "fuel sending unit repair"
Tom
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46fordnut |
04-04-2011 @ 12:45 PM
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Member
Posts: 332
Joined: Oct 2009
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sender works on and off some times. i did put an ohm meter on it only works till about 1/4 tank would be.
100 horse running wild
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46fordnut |
04-07-2011 @ 3:55 PM
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Member
Posts: 332
Joined: Oct 2009
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found my heater tube for $13.00 at napa 2 inch dia . it seems to be a good fit.
100 horse running wild
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TomO |
04-08-2011 @ 12:42 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7257
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you have an original sending unit, it sounds like the contacts are dirty form sitting. Here is a description of how it works. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u197/mercurytom/gasgauge.jpg Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 4-8-11 @ 12:46 PM
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