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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Spring in Rhode Island

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Spring in Rhode Island -- page: 1 2     presidentsamito 04-03-2011 @ 5:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Mar 2010 Hello Friends, I have officially re-started my restoration project on my 1946 Super Deluxe. I have two issues to resolve to continue. 1) The ignition lock unit has frozen over and the key is broken off. It appears that the housing that contains the switch and key mechanism is riveted on, there doesn't seem to be a bolt that has a head that can be turned to remove the assembly. Do these need to be drilled out? What is the procedure? 2) I have a sagging drivers door. I posted on this last Fall before I put the project away for the Winter and someone suggested the hinges need to be re-welded. There is no play in the hinge and pin is tight, the door simple sags at the side away from the hinge by about 1/4 inch. I want to correct this before final assembly. Any ideas? **Finally, is anyone available to come and help me with reassembly of this car, paid of course. I now realize that putting fenders back on requires two persons...so if anyone is within driving distance to RI I will pay day rates for help. Thanks This message was edited by presidentsamito on 4-3-11 @ 5:23 AM 37RAGTOPMAN 04-03-2011 @ 7:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1965 Joined: Oct 2009 on the bottom of the ignition switch tumbler, there is a 1/4 INCH metal plug, that will have to be removed, this allows the ignition lock tumbler to be removed, you can VERY CAREFULLY, drill it out, [ MAKE SURE YOU ARE DEAD CENTER ] I would use a small drill and use a tap, and the insert a screw or bolt with the same size treads as the tap is and pull it out, this will remove the key tumbler,it should slide out, soaking the whole thing with PB BLASTER, rust buster, this will help, it does a great job, the lever on the switch part should, or can be moved at this point. this moves the lock in and out of the steering lock on the column , allowing the steering wheel to be locked, I just did a ignition lock on a 1947 truck, it was completely frozen, the bolt had to be heated with a heat gun, you did not state if the colunm was locked or not, a picture of the door hinge might help,in deciding it what the exact problem is, also a JAW HORSE is handy when working by yourself,can be used in holding things in place while you put bolts in, my cents 37 RAGTOPMAN and keep on FORDIN,,,!!!!! supereal 04-03-2011 @ 12:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 As there seems to be no play in the hinge itself, or the pin, remove the door trim and panel and inspect the inside end of the hinge for looseness or damage. If the door fits the opening well, but misses the strike, you can adjust the strike by loosening the mounting screws and moving it up or down as needed. We sometimes have to make a spacer to get the strike closer to the latch to get a smooth action. Same is true of the "dovetails" on the edge of the door, which may also need to be replaced. presidentsamito 04-03-2011 @ 3:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Mar 2010 Thank you for responses. I need to take out the lock cylinder on the column (the column is locked) and the "on" and "off" switch there too. The on / off switch broke off. So, I need to remove and replace that switch too. Does it too come out? 37RAGTOPMAN 04-03-2011 @ 3:36 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1965 Joined: Oct 2009 you will have to remove the steering column, the lock assy is slide out the bottom of the steering tube, no knowing how stuck or not, the lock is,depends what to tell you what to do, can you unlock the steering wheel ? If you cannot,you will first have to free the lock bolt that locks the steering shaft in place, other wise you cannot slide the tube off the steering shaft, let us know, anybody else have any ideas? hard to explain, 37RAGTOPMAN presidentsamito 04-03-2011 @ 3:39 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Mar 2010 Ok, I think the assembly itself contains the lock cylinder and the ignition on off switch. It is fixed to the column with something other than bolts...do I drill those out to get the assembly out? Regarding the door, here are photos of the door issue. www.immersionstudio.com/door1.jpg www.immersionstudio.com/door2.jpg www.immersionstudio.com/door3.jpg www.immersionstudio.com/door4.jpg thirtysixford 04-03-2011 @ 4:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 211 Joined: Oct 2009 A dumb question I'm sure, but how did you get multi pictures in one post? When I tried it I could only post one and had to reply to my own post to add more. alanwoodieman 04-03-2011 @ 5:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 easy way to adjust the door for "settling" is to put a wood block one the lower hinge between the door and the post and gently push on the door, a little at a time and that will raise the end of the door for alignment. I worked in a body shop and they did that all the time, even now that is how they adjust GM doors except they pry up on the lock mechanism/door stud with a tool to take out the sag supereal 04-03-2011 @ 5:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Those photos were posted on a separate web site, thus the multiple URLs. presidentsamito 04-03-2011 @ 6:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Mar 2010 Question, I see that the top support for the door goes through the door and through the body of the car itself. On the car side of this steel piece (visible in what would be under the dash panel area) is the terminus of this piece...where it bolts to the car. There isn't any adjustment on the door side but does the bolt on the body side of this upper steel provide any adjustment? I just don't see any way to adjust this door without re welding the top support...

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