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Posted By Discussion Topic: Fenton headers on '38 coupe -- page: 1 2     TomO 03-30-2011 @ 9:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7253 Joined: Oct 2009 I have Fenton headers on my car and a friend has Red's headers on his 40. Reds do not require bending the dip stick and give a little more clearance at the starter. I had to get a longer starter cable because the stock cable rides on the headers. IMHO, i would go with Reds and have them ceramic coated. Tom Tim I 03-30-2011 @ 8:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 73 Joined: Apr 2010 I had assumed I'd go with Fenton headers, because they are traditional. But I did check into Red's Header's, and I like that they are made for the specific application and the fit is guaranteed. Also, it looks like they can provide a complete kit, with no welding required, so maybe I could avoid a very noisy drive to a muffler shop. Anyone else have experience with Red's Headers? Tim 37RAGTOPMAN 03-29-2011 @ 1:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 also what I found out that the bolts seize more to the exhaust manifolds, then the block itself, that why its important to use a good rust buster and some sort of heat, a good heat gun makes life a lot easier, I doubt it very much that you will have to remove the engine to do this job, I wonder how many people actully have to do this, seems like a lot of work to me, if you want to paint the engine at the same time ,I could see it, I think if it going to break, it will do it just as much with the engine removed as in the chassis, preparing the bolts and nuts ahead of time with soaking and heat works best, I never had a problem doing it my way, I cannot remember breaking a exhaust manifold stud, head studs yes, head studs, if they look ok and have good treads leave well enough alone, why look for problems,? if the stud breaks ,later on you can deal with it, and the odds are you never will have a problem.you only torque them to 50-55 lbs,and its a 7/16 stud, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-29-11 @ 4:31 PM supereal 03-29-2011 @ 10:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 More often than not, the heads on the manifold bolts will break before the bolts themselves. These fasteners are subjected to many thousands of heat/cool cycles, and this anneals them. Brass nuts help, but many times they were not replaced over the years, but it is likely the studs need to be changed. Once the manifold is off, we wire weld nuts on the broken bolts. The heat breaks the rust bond, and by turning them a bit one way then the other, they usually come out with the engine in the frame. If you twist one off in the block. the position makes getting them out very difficult. Most penetrating oils, etc, have little or no effect on those fasteners. Tim I 03-29-2011 @ 9:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 73 Joined: Apr 2010 Many thanks to all who replied! It sounds like I might be better off waiting on the headers until I'm prepared to pull the engine if I do break any bolts. I'm hoping to finally get the car titled and registered this Friday, and I'd really like to have the car to drive this summer. At the rate I work, if the engine comes out, it'll be out all summer! I think I will go with headers eventually, but maybe not until I make the engine swap. Thanks again! Tim 37RAGTOPMAN 03-29-2011 @ 4:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 Tim i use 6 point sockets or wrenches,!!!!! run the motor till its gets operating temp,loosen one bolt at a time, very carefully,work it back and forth, till it loosens up, do not remove fully.just back off a turn or so,if the engine cools off restart, keep working the bolts out,heat helps one out of a time,get some PD BLASTER. use this a few days ahead, this should help, I replaced the bolts with stainless steel, it is handy to have a boat store up the street, I had a problem with the stud on the starter, had to put a dimple in the header, if you use the cast iron you will not be able to do this,,so ask were you get the FENTONS,if they will clear, now I think about it,maybe I could have turned the starter 180 degrees, but not positive about that either, but would had to get another longer batt cable. the 2 pipes from the headers to muffler was a issue for me, I had mufflers and tailpipes made by a shop in my area. you will enjoy them, seems to run better,more power,atleast it sounds better, hope this helps 37 RAGTOPMAN ford38v8 03-28-2011 @ 8:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2762 Joined: Oct 2009 Tim, there are three obstacles to changing over to Fenton headers: Busted manifold bolts is the first. Hard to remove if you don't have the expertise. Clutch pedal clearance for the new exhaust pipe. A small dent must be peened into the pipe to clear the pedal elbow. Dipstick clearance. The dip pipe must be bent to clear the header. Do not grind the header to clear the pipe. Always use brass nuts on manifold bolts. Not to do so virtually guarantees broken studs. Alan tudorbilll 03-28-2011 @ 3:59 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 108 Joined: Oct 2009 I put reds headers on my two 35s they fit like a glove Go right around the seering box and battery. Look great.Been on five yrs now. Have the coating put on by them Be sure not to weld to them. Use clamps. supereal 03-28-2011 @ 1:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The toughest part of installing headers is removing the original exhaust manifolds without twisting off the mounting bolts. If you can do that, your luck is better than mine. The next problem is fitting the left side head pipe thru the pedals,etc. If you are not experienced in these operations, you are likely ahead by having a good muffler shop install the system for you. joe b 03-28-2011 @ 1:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 389 Joined: Oct 2010 I put Fenton headers on my "41 and love them. I didn't need to jack the engine up to do this. Don't know if the engine sits different in a '38. I put Smithy's on it too. Great old time flathead sound.

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