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Posted By Discussion Topic: '36 electrical problems -- page: 1 2     TomO 03-25-2011 @ 5:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7257 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, the Holley instructions include a wire from the starter solenoid to allow the pump to work when starting. A spring loaded toggle switch could be used to pick the relay for priming also. Tom supereal 03-25-2011 @ 10:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Finding 6 volt relays is tough these days, particularly if they have to handle a high load. We use 6 volt starter solenoids for that purpose. You can get them at a NAPA store. They are the "universal" type, and can be set up to be triggered by either a hot or ground supply. Horn relays are readily available. C&G has them on page 178 of their catalog. I wouldn't use them as a fan control, as they are designed for very short bursts. I like Tom's suggestion of using oil pressure to control an electric fuel pump for safety reasons, but we also include a spring loaded bypass switch to prime the carb, if needed. Until the engine is running, you wouldn't have a fuel supply for starting purposes if the carb level was low from heat soak or evaporation. ole_Bill 03-25-2011 @ 7:40 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 165 Joined: Dec 2009 Where do I find a wiring diagram for using a relay? I probably need one for the horns also. trjford8 03-23-2011 @ 7:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4228 Joined: Oct 2009 If you are using an electric fan be sure to use a relay. That little ignition switch will not handle the current draw of an electic fan. TomO 03-23-2011 @ 6:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7257 Joined: Oct 2009 I would wire the electric fuel pump using an oil pressure switch . See the diagram on the Holley site. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7914-3.pdf Tom ole_Bill 03-23-2011 @ 8:01 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 165 Joined: Dec 2009 RAGTOP - Your suggestions worked out well. I haven't wired the radiator fan yet but will be working on it soon. Nor have I installed the front or rear lights (car is just back from the paint shop). I have a good VOM and you're right, it does come in handy. Many thanks for the help. supereal 03-22-2011 @ 5:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I stand corrected. The diagram shows only two connections, rather than the three that became standard the next year. 37RAGTOPMAN 03-22-2011 @ 2:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1965 Joined: Oct 2009 ole-bill that IGN switch is the exact same one that I have in my 37, one lead in is hot, with switch off and the other should be hot with switch on, so both are hot with switch on, power in,power out use a test light,hook up battery,check both terminals,make sure the switch is off,hook the fuel pump to that one and also the wire going to the distributer, this is the one with no power with in the off position, one of those wire should be running over to the resister block,then down to the distributer,already on the resister block, remove one of the wires, connect both together, so you are disconnecting the resister, with the electronic dist, I do not think you need the resister,[check this out ] the resister lowers the voltage from 6 volts to 3 1/2 so the coil will overheat, the fuel pump should run now,, and the distributer should receive currant also,once you turn the switch on, Only problem I have with doing that you have a lot of things coming off one terminal,check to see if it gets hot after running for a period of time,. being you are not using the resister it should be ok, just make sure the contacts are clean and tight, if you were to run more items you might have to pick up currant someplace else,that is were a power relay would come in, but do not worry about now, as far as the alt is concerned,you should be able to use the wire that went to the generator,it should work the same, going in the dash and going though the amp meter that is in the car, I am assuming you have a one wire ALT, I had a problem with a generator, and wanted a replacement in a few days and bought one from Certified Auto Electric.and it wired up , with the existing wire that was going to the orginal generator, so you should be good to go, the rest of the wiring should remain the same,starter switch,etc, if you do not have a good test light or voltmeter , pick either ot both, will make life easier, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN we expect some pictures of this project,,,!!!! on your electric cooling fan, were are you picking up power now,? Lets hear how you made out,!!!!!!! This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-22-11 @ 2:46 PM supereal 03-22-2011 @ 12:28 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 OK, Bill, I am attaching a "simplified" '36 wiring diagram. I suspect that the original switch was replaced with something else, because there was a design change in late '37 that affected the '38 and later models, making the earlier switch hard to find. Some better vendors, such as C&G, may be able to furnish one. supereal 03-22-2011 @ 12:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I'll look it up and scan it, Bill. Wow, that sure isn't a Ford ignition switch! It makes me wonder what else was "improved" in your car! If that is an indication, you may be faced with replacing the whole wiring loom, not an easy task, to say the least. This message was edited by supereal on 3-22-11 @ 12:12 PM

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