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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Head Removal

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Head Removal     1934 Ford 03-21-2011 @ 3:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 Finally it's coming off!!! It came off the old fashioned way. Lots of Blaster, prying, wedging, hitting, a 500 mile race at Bristol and few cans of beer. Glad I'm not paying for me by the hour. I tried the slap hammer. My 3 pound one was used in the end, but not until it was loose all around. I borrowed a 10 pound one and welded a bolt in an old spark plug. (It stripped the threads off the fine thread bolt and didn't budge the head) I guess doing this job with the engine in the car is always a project due to the lack of prying and hammer space. One of the guys in our local Model A Club built a steel plate that sat on the top of the studs with holes for big bolts into the spark plug holes. Then tightened the plate down lifting the head. Seems to me that with all the easy access to the 4 cylinder Model A head, it wouldn't be necessary but he loans it all the club members. Thanks for the suggestions. 39 Ken 03-15-2011 @ 11:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, I don't have to ask!! I've been down that alley. Ken supereal 03-15-2011 @ 11:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 That's right, Ken. That is why we use the wooden door wedges, as they have very thin ends that split before damaging the internal parts. Even so, they should be inserted in the space between cylinders. An added precaution: when removing studs, be sure that the valves in the area of the stud are fully closed before you use the puller. Don't ask how I know that. 39 Ken 03-15-2011 @ 4:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Be careful when using wedges or any prying tool in the area of the valves. They don't take kindly to any side force and can be bent. Ken supereal 03-14-2011 @ 9:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 It is likely that a persistant leak has caused the studs to rust to the head. Once you break that bond, you should be able to pry the head up enough to get it off. We start with a putty knife all the way around the head, then graduate to a thin pry bar, being careful not to mar the block surface. When there is enough room, insert the wooden wedges used to install doors in a house. They are sold in packs at home centers. Drive in several until the head is free. You will probably find several studs that are partially rusted away. We replace all studs usuing a good puller. If you don't have one, double nut the studs and work them back and forth until you get them free. Be sure to coat the block ends of new studs with a non-hardening sealer such as Permatex. If you use care, it is likely the suds will come out. If you break any, seek professional help to avoid block damage. 37RAGTOPMAN 03-13-2011 @ 4:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 I would try a heat gun,heating the head so the PB BLASTER can work its way in, also try using strips of rag wrapped around each stud and let soak for a few days, then remove the rags and apply the heat,this might take a while to get the all the head heated up, also using a slide hammer in the spark plug holes might also pull the head up, doing a little at a time,working back and forth across the head, you will have to use old spark plug and make sure it is scr*w*d all the way in, take the plug apart and use the bottom of it,it is a 18mm size tread, using a screw driver or chisel, between the head and block to me is a last resort,you do not want to gouge up the block,you do this working you way around, hope this helps,!!!!!! INSPECT the studs, I usually try using them if possible, chase the treads and inspect them, I would use the old ones if possible if they look good, going to a auto machine shop to have removed will run big money,, getting them ALL out with breaking 3 or 4 you would be lucky guy, you can always take the head off if you have problems later on,, usually this is not a problem, have done many engines using the studs over,but replace the nuts with American made nuts, if you have to replace the head studs, MAKE SURE you get the best you can buy, cheap ones can break on installation, my 3 cents worth, 37RAGTOPMAN, PLEASE post how you made out, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-14-11 @ 4:55 PM 1934 Ford 03-13-2011 @ 4:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 Today I started removing a bad (steel) head on My 34 Fordor. It was rusted out from the inside and leaking water out in upper corner closest to the firewall. Other wise it's a great running 21 stud flathead. I removed the water pump, head bolts, plug loom, and all the head bolts. STUCK !! I hit the starter (without plug wires on that side) and saw a compression poof (indicating I blew the head gasket, but the head is still stuck) I taped on the entire head with a hammer and tried to get a wedge into the are at the front of the head between the head and the block. STUCK ! As I write this the studs are all soaking in Blaster. Now I need suggestions from you, the FORUM members, as to methods that worked for you. The last time I did this on another 34, it was also a challenge. There must be an eassier way, your suggestions please.

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