Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
49 Ford - slow start
|
|
jfarrell |
02-20-2011 @ 8:49 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 46
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Thanks for the help. I followed the insrtuctions given and located the problem. The ground strap between the body and the engine block was the problem -- cleaned the connections. Also cleaned the rest of the connections again for good measure. Now it turns over rather fast. The real "test" will be when the rain stops and I can get the car on the road and up to operating temperature. If it starts hot, which I suspect it will, the problem is cured. Thanks again. Jim Farrell
|
supereal |
02-19-2011 @ 3:25 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The reason we install a direct ground connection to the starter is because at six volts, even one ohm resistance can prevent adequate cranking. The starter motor creates the largest single draw on the system. It depends on several connection to receive an adequate ground, such as the braided cable between the battery and body, and the body to the engine. All must be clean, tight, and of adequate size. Even then, the face of the starter, and the "through bolts" also must be clean and tight. The direct connection between the starter and the ground side of the battery is a sort of "belt and suspenders" approach to have good cranking. We use a common 12 volt cable with eyelets on both ends. As it is a supplimental connection, it will be fine for six volts. With proper grounding, a six volt starter should be able to crank at a speed that assures quick starting. We have taken this approach for years with success.
|
TomO |
02-19-2011 @ 10:16 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
|
You should check out the grounding system before you replace any parts of it to avoid adding to your problems or making the problem intermittent. To check your grounding system, hook a volt meter between the POS (+) terminal of the battery and the case of the starter. Read the voltage while cranking the engine with the key off. Any reading above 2/10ths of a volt is not good. Move your meter lead towards the battery to isolate. You can use the same procedure to check the voltage in the NEG side of the circuit. On this side you can have a reading as high as 5/10ths of a volt.
Tom
|
nelsb01 |
02-18-2011 @ 12:56 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 983
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The braided cable that goes from the battery to the engine should be about 1 1/8 inch wide. The 'extra' strap that goes from the middle of the engine compartment divider and passenger compartment is about 5/8 inch in width. If you have good conduction (the surfaces are clean) between the cable ends, you should not need to do any re-routing of cables, or add an additional one.
|
jfarrell |
02-18-2011 @ 12:14 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 46
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Last November in an answer to someone who was having slow starting problems with a 6-volt system, Supereal said something to the effect that he usually runs a cable from the ground strap to one of the starter mounting bolts to make sure the starter is grounded properly. On the 49, the ground strap (positive ground)from the battery is to the driver's side head. The engine ground strap is from the firewall to the back-top of the engine. Which one or is either ok to run the cable to? Also what size cable do I need? Does it need to be as big a cable as the battery cables and/or ground strap from the firewall to the engine? As you can see, I'm not very knowlegeble when it comes to electricity. Thanks Jim Farrell
|