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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / fuel pump vacumn

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Discussion Topic: fuel pump vacumn -- page: 1 2

39 Ken

10-06-2010 @ 4:52 AM

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Your first stop should be at Roy Nacewicz web site;
http://www.fordscript.com/ .
He sells fuel lines, among many other parts for our cars, as originally made for Ford and they are exact dupilcates. Roy deserves our business as he has been a constant supporter of our hobby and our club. Give him a try. Ken

supereal

10-05-2010 @ 3:09 PM

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For years we didn't see bad gas lines. Now, they are becoming common. Apparently, the "oxygenated" fuels are accelerating rust and corrosion. Simply replacing the line now is a good idea. For about $20, it will prevent being stranded.

TomO

10-05-2010 @ 1:43 PM

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You might have a vacuum leak with that line.

It looks like there was a problem and the fix was to add a short length of line to the rotten gas line. Here is a site that has the 5/16" line that you need.

http://www.quantaproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FLGGL5001

C&G sells the 1/4" copper coated line for less money.

Tom

jimmyt43

10-05-2010 @ 1:16 PM

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put the new pump in and have good vacumn and flow of fuel, then the flow went away. went to remove the fuel line from the flex line to the tank and look what I found behind the left front inner fender wall when I took it out (see attached).

TomO

10-04-2010 @ 9:01 AM

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It sounds like you have one of the Airtex pumps. The Offenhauser pump sold by Speedway is of better construction.

Tom

jimmyt43

10-03-2010 @ 12:26 PM

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no vacumn at the flexline...removed the fuel pump and checked the arm, the piece of metal that holds the pushrod in place has moved to a position that will not hold the pushrod against the arm. This fuel pump is only 2 weeks old so I have another one coming on Monday.

TomO

10-02-2010 @ 9:29 AM

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There are a couple of possible answers to your problem

1) worn operating arm pivot, the pump will operate by hand but not very well when on the engine.
2) dirt in the valves allowing the vacuum to leak down when operated by the starter.
3) bowl gasket leaking, causing the pump to suck air.
4) flex line or tank line leaking air causing the pump to suck air.

You can hook up your vacuum gauge to the flex line input and crank the engine. The pump should produce 10 inches of vacuum in 18 seconds of cranking and take at least 1 minute to reach 0 after stopping cranking.

If you do not reach 10 inches, look for a leak in the flex line or the bowl gasket. Worn pivot in the pump arm can also cause this.

If you reach 10 inches but it leaks down fast or in a non-linear way, the fuel pump valve is bad.

Tom

supereal

10-02-2010 @ 8:39 AM

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It is possible that your gas cap isn't properly vented. Sometimes we find a radiator cap there. If the fuel pump works sometimes, but not others, that can be the cause if the pump is "fuel proof" and the diaphragm isn't flopping. Otherwise, I'd take a close look at the pump arm. We have seen many of them that have loose or otherwise poor linkage.

jimmyt43

10-02-2010 @ 8:01 AM

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The pushrod spec is 10 1/16" and mine measures out at 10 1/16". I also measured it with a caliper mic and it was like 10.076.
I tried putting a 5/32 nut which is about a 1/16" in the arm hole to make the length longer and that did not help.

37RAGTOPMAN

10-02-2010 @ 5:15 AM

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jimmy43
is the push rod the correct one, if it iS too short it will not move the arm, when you move the arm by hand it pumps, and it travels the full distance but maybe the rod is the wrong one?
put the rod at it highest point and then install the pump over the push rod do you fee a resistence, like the diaphram is collasping,and the pumP seems to be starting to pump fuel?
let hear how you made out.37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on TRUCKIN...!!!
NICE 49

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