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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / My 36 has hiccups

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Posted By Discussion Topic: My 36 has hiccups     TomO 09-09-2010 @ 9:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Shunt the resistor by jumpering across it temporarily. The ignition switch can be bypassed by attaching a jumper from the bat terminal to the coil terminal. If you still have the problem, I would check for point bounce. Remember everybody makes mistakes, so just because something is new or just checked by someone doesn't mean that you should not check it again. Tom DK 09-09-2010 @ 7:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 10 Joined: Oct 2009 I appreciate all of the suggestions to my problem. I'm learning a lot from you folks. The ignition is of suspect as it's well worn, but the wires are good and tight. The resister is also suspect since it has no cover on it. By shunting it, you mean completely bypassing the resister? As I mentioned, the coil has been modernized and the distributor has been gone over completely and re-timed, so I don't think it's either of these. Thanks 39 Ken 09-09-2010 @ 5:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 TomO is in the right area. It could be point bounce but while you're checking the ignition switch especially for loose connections, check the resistor that lowers the voltage to the coil (Careful, it gets HOT when in operation) The Nichrome wire can be broken but still touch and operate correctly until the car encounters a bump which will dislodge it for a second causing a hesitation. Ken 1883warren 09-08-2010 @ 10:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2009 No, it's not your carb'. If you're using a standard Ford coil, the original type... this is your problem. I've never found a GOOD original type coil. Old NOS are no good anymore and the rest are made in some third world place... and no good either. Convert to the kit that lets you use a regular 6v. coil, such as for a '50 Ford...mount the coil on the head or up under the generator. Shunt your under-dash resistor to allow full 6v. to the new coil. Your hiccups will be over. TomO 09-07-2010 @ 7:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Use the choke to help diagnose the problem. Pull the choke out a little when the problem occurs. If the engine smooths out, you are having a fuel delivery problem. Another possible cause is that the ignition points are binding or bouncing. There are some aftermarket points that seem to work for a short period until they have been heated and cooled a few times. I connect a jumper wire to the condenser connection of the distributor and then hook up a dwell meter to check for this condition. You will see the dwell change when the engine RPM is above idle. It will continue to vary and look like a worn bushing in the distributor. You should also check you ignition switch. You can try vibrating the switch body while in your driveway. If the engine hesitates or dies, you can clean up the switch body. There may be replacements available for your car also. Tom 37RAGTOPMAN 09-06-2010 @ 4:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 if when running , when at operating temp, it might be the valves sticking,[ HANGING UP FOR JUST A SPLIT SECOND] I had this on a MODEL A, and used a top oil[ MMO] to help from sticking,a few hundred miles and no more problems, RUN A VACUUMN GAUGE inside the car and see what happens,if it jumps around back and forth, you might have a sticking problem,. is the engine remian quiet ? or when it misses does it get a tapping noise ? its worth a try,to use MMO, just till you get the engine broken in, 37 RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,,!!!!!!!!!! This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-9-10 @ 5:12 AM DK 09-06-2010 @ 10:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 10 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan, The 36 skips a beat just cruising down the road, 45 -50 mph, perhaps a little more when I push it. I'll take it out today and see if it's doing the same and under what conditions. Thanks supereal 09-06-2010 @ 8:35 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 As you have a rebuilt coil and distributor, I would suspect you have a fuel delivery problem, particularly if it most occurs on a hard pull or at highway speeds. As I have mentioned, probably too many times, we are seeing an increase in partially clogged fuel lines between the firewall and the tank. Unless you have a newer tank, it is highly probable yours is infested with crud. Alcohol laced fuels have a nasty habit of loosening that stuff, which acts as an intermittent barrier to flow. ford38v8 09-05-2010 @ 6:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 DK, yes, it could be the carburetor, or a number of things. could you give us the exact circumstances that it happens, and if there are any other times that it happens? My initial guess is that your spark is weak or your plug gap is incorrect. The weak spark can be checked by pulling one plug wire to spark against a head bolt: It should be a strong blue spark at a half inch away. If not, the incoming lead to the coil may be less than 3 volts, the bare minimum for good spark. Alan DK 09-05-2010 @ 5:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 10 Joined: Oct 2009 After 500 miles on an engine overhaul, rebuilt coil and distributor by Skip, my 36 now starts and runs great, however, the engine hesitates very briefly and then continues running good as before. This happens every 2 or 3 miles while running down the road. Could this be the carburetor? I would appreciate any comments you folks would have. Thanks for many favors in the past.

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