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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1939 alternator and 12v starter braking     parrish 09-05-2010 @ 8:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 I will probably simply buy an alternator rather convert my generator with a kit, however, I seek advice on the pros and cons...The one issue that makes me uncomfortable with 12v is the procedure to brake the original starter so it won't jam. Is it difficult to do and is it trial and error as to how much braking is required? thanks! supereal 09-05-2010 @ 10:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Your 6 volt starter will work with a 12 volt system, but will have a somewhat shortened life. If your car is now 6 volts, you can obtain a 6 volt alternator from several sources, eliminating the time and money consuming chore of changing all the lamps, accommodating the gauges, and all the other "must dos". Installing a "one wire" alternator is easy, but they tend to be somewhat lazy about coming on without high revving the engine. I compensated by making a smaller pulley on my alternator. 37RAGTOPMAN 09-05-2010 @ 2:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 CERTIFIED AUTO ELECTRIC has what you need in 6 volts, No Need to destroy your starter. they work on 12 volts, but everthing takes a beating, life of the starter, and they are not getting any cheaper. ,the starter drive plus the ringear, and then there is the electric system to contend with, hope this helps, KEEP IT 6 VOLTS, 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,,, if you want ot need more light for night time driving, order a set of fog driving driving lights from JOB LOT in NY. they have some real nice UNITY'S with FORD SCRIPT, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-6-10 @ 4:25 PM 1883warren 09-09-2010 @ 9:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2009 Ragtopman has it right... Keep your car SIX VOLTS. If your starter doesn't spin, take it to an electric shop that will rebuild it. Use only BIG 6v. heavy cables. Ground direct to your engine/tranny (and to the frame & body) I'm using a 1939 30 amp generator, with fan on the pulley, and a voltage regulator on the firewall. This is the '39 STANDARD generator. DeLux fan is on crankshaft and no provision for a fan on those (otherwise same) generators. I have new reflectors and 50 cp bulbs. Also a tube radio. A 30 amp generator has the same output as a 60 amp 12v. alternator. V x A = WATTS. My '36 is original and the starter spins, and it starts instantly. I can run everything electrically full blast and I have power to burn. Bright lights and everything works as it should. I use all new (black) plastic modern wire for safety, and one gauge bigger than Ford used. I solder GROUND wires to the headlight bulb sockets. Ground every part of your car. I even tack-weld all the frame members together, for full continuity. Hope this helps... parrish 09-10-2010 @ 8:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 thanks for the replies. I have a little bit of generator bearing noise and it was a good time to think about a conversion. For now, I'll keep her 6 volt and monitor the bearing noise. supereal 09-10-2010 @ 9:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Be sure the noise is actually coming from the bearing. Often, it is from the other end of the generator. Remove the belt and carefully turn the generator by hand. If you feel any perceptible roughness, the bearing is failing, and must be replaced. TomO 09-10-2010 @ 9:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 If the generator front bearing is making noise, have it replaced. Believe me it is much cheaper to pay for a new bearing than to pay for a tow because it seized. If its the rear bushing making noise, oil it and it will probably work for years. I would stick with the generator and 6 volts, unless you need to change because of the extra equipment you have on your car. The generator system is less troublesome than a alternator, because your wiring and other components were designed for the 6 volt generator. Changing over to 12 volts usually creates more problems than it fixes. You will probably have problems with your gauges, you may have to change the sockets in the tail lights, you should have the starter converted to 12 volts, 12 volt headlight bulbs may be hard to find, if you use an alternator you will have to modify the wiring harness, you will have to replace the coil and all light bulbs. IMHO it is not worth the expense and effort to avoid paying less than $100 to have a bearing replaced and the generator checked out. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-10-10 @ 9:38 AM 1883warren 09-10-2010 @ 3:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2009 Yea,... listen to Tom, because he's right. Take your generator off, then apart and put in a new front bearing. Wiggle the rear, with the end (bearing) on the end of the armature and if feels like it's a bit loose... have that replaced too. Shops use a little puller to get the bushing out. I've used a small carbide cutter in a dremel tool (high speed) and have cut thru' one side (mostly), then pry it inward with a small sharp screwdriver or a stylus. Pressing the new one in with a small press is the best idea for putting in a new busing... do not hammer on it. With modern oils, your new bearings will last forever. I'm now believing that this idea of 'converting' all these old cars to 12v. is just a street rod FAD. Like the others have said, it only opens up a can of worms and you end up with a lot more troubles than you had before. The engineers at Ford were some of the sharpest guys anywhere, and anybody that thinks they are going to 'improve' on them... think again. Best of luck with your electrical system!

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