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Discussion Topic:
torque setting for 1936 rear brake drum nut
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JM |
09-07-2010 @ 6:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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This information was published in the V8 Times some time ago. Go to this link and it will give you the correct torque numbers to use. http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/reartorq.htm
JM
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parrish |
09-04-2010 @ 8:57 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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Alan and Super and the rest of the folks give great tips and marking the end of the the axle is one of them. I used a bare hacksaw blade and made a very small (and barely visible) mark, but have used them a number of times and always grin to myself how much easier it makes targeting that darn cotter hole.
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parrish |
09-04-2010 @ 8:57 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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Alan and Super and the rest of the folks give great tips and marking the end of the the axle is one of them. I used a bare hacksaw blade and made a very small (and barely visible) mark, but have used them a number of times and always grin to myself how much easier it makes targeting that darn cotter hole.
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parrish |
09-04-2010 @ 8:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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Alan and Super and the rest of the folks give great tips and marking the end of the the axle is one of them. I used a bare hacksaw blade and made a very small (and barely visible) mark, but have used them a number of times and always grin to myself how much easier it makes targeting that darn cotter hole.
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supereal |
09-04-2010 @ 9:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here's a tip: Before you install the nut, make a mark on the end of the axle to show the position of the hole for the cotter pin. We use a file, or a wick pen will do. Once the nut is in place, finding the hole for the cotter pin can be tough unless you know where it is. Be sure that the axle threads are clean and undamaged, then cinch down the nut as tight as you can, and retighten after a hundred miles or so. Also, install a new fiber washer into the outer recess of the hub before putting on the washer and nut. This washer is actually a seal. In over 60 years, I have yet to twist off the end of an undamaged axle.
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norge46 |
09-04-2010 @ 7:43 AM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2010
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Thank you for your fast response. Will follow your advice.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
09-04-2010 @ 6:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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TIGHEN IT UP, align the cotter pin, drive the car and recheck for being tight,always use a new cotter pin, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!
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ford38v8 |
09-03-2010 @ 8:12 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gibson, the correct torque for the rear axle nut is not known by anyone I know. Just get it tight as you can with a cheater bar, being aware of the hole for the cotter key, as you don't really want to back it off to get the cotter key in. Be aware that tthere should be no burrs and no lubricant on the taper of the axle. Also, the key should be like new with no wear marks, and the axle keyway should be the same. Check closely also at the end of the keyway fo a crack. If there is a crack, your axle WILL break at the worst time you can imagine. Ask me how I know.
Alan
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gibsonh |
09-03-2010 @ 2:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Sep 2010
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I need the torque setting for a 1936 Ford rear brake drum nut. It has mechanical brakes which I have just rebuilt but need the torque setting for the rear axle shaft nut. Thanks
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