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Discussion Topic:
1948 car hand brake
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37RAGTOPMAN |
11-06-2023 @ 1:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1963
Joined: Oct 2009
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48 handbrake issue how is the brake pedal, is it good, if you pull on the cable does the rear brake lock up ? if it does not ' then you may the problem may be in the brakes, did you leave the brake cables loose, adjust the rear brakes, so they lock up and then back off till the drums just spin now hook up the handbrake up and adjust and see if they work now let us know how you make out also were did you get the brake shoes,??? are they REPROS ? I see that they are bonded brakes, a close up shows the the bottom oblong spacers in the hole in the brake shoe shows play, I do not know if this ok or not I heard that they could be a problem, not quite made the same as the originals try staying with original, un worn parts, I just did the brakes on my 37 which have the 42 48 juice brakes I bought NOS FORD original brake lining , and used original FORD brake shoes ,,, relined the brakes myself, used rivits, hope this helps 37 Ragtopman
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 11-6-23 @ 1:46 PM
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oldfords |
11-01-2023 @ 6:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Nov 2022
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Yes, I have the clip for the spring, I just took it off while working. I have installed both the front and rear cables new. I do have adjustment on the hand brake lever as well as at the equalizer at the rear cable. As to the length of the cable, mine was cut off, so I have no idea what any of the old cable lengths were. I did measure the cable pull when I apply the hand brake. The cable pulls in 1" at the rear of the front cable. I don't know if this is enough, but don't see any way to make it pull any greater length. al
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37RAGTOPMAN |
10-30-2023 @ 6:47 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1963
Joined: Oct 2009
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HI NO EMERGENCY BRAKE I see in the photo's you also need a clip on the end of spring so the springs, so does not go into the tube, I made these from a small washer cut and spread and then crimped so the spring does not go into the tube, is the front hand brake cable in good condition ? not broken or frayed ? there also should be a adjustment on the hand brake, under the dash, there is one on my 37 also did you measure the length of the new cable to the old ones, repro parts are not always reproduced correctly. hope this helps 37 Ragtopman, Maine
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trjford8 |
10-29-2023 @ 11:32 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4220
Joined: Oct 2009
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Make that 4 people.
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kubes40 |
10-28-2023 @ 7:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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Make that three people.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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oldfords |
10-28-2023 @ 6:54 AM
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Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Nov 2022
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Two different people have the same thought about the springs, so that's where I will start.
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51woodie |
10-28-2023 @ 4:38 AM
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Senior
Posts: 517
Joined: Jan 2017
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This was posted on the Ford Barn, and my answer there (more descriptive) matches Ken's response.
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39 Ken |
10-28-2023 @ 4:07 AM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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The new springs that you show in your pics are too long as supplied by the repro parts vendors. If you have the old springs, measure them and cut the new one to match. I cut them on my car to about 5 inches or so ( too long ago to remember exact length). Ken
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carcrazy |
10-27-2023 @ 11:40 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1671
Joined: Oct 2009
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The most likely cause of your problem is that the hand brake cables are not supplying sufficient force on the brake levers to allow the shoes to contact the drums. Have you adjusted the handbrake cables to where they are taut with no looseness anywhere in the system? If you have adjusted them to limits to make them as tight as possible and still cannot get them to apply the rear brakes, you may have to use some wire to tie the two cables together after the equalizer (Y connection) till all of the slack is removed.
This message was edited by carcrazy on 10-27-23 @ 11:42 PM
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oldfords |
10-27-2023 @ 7:36 PM
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Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Nov 2022
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The hand brake will not work. I have replaced everything from the handle to the rear shoes including all new cables, new cylinders, and new shoes. I adjust the shoes out per instructions until they drag, I them take all the slack out of the E-cable and attach it to the front cable. I pull the hand brake and nothing. I have pulled the drums many times and can see nothing wrong. I have disconnected the cable at the shoe for demonstration and here is my question. In the first pic, you will see how far back the E-Brake lever is from the tin shield around the axel. In pic two you will see how far the lever must travel to engage the operation lever. Notice how close it is now to the tin shield. I think when I pull the hand cable, the lever contacts the tin shield before it push the shoes far enough to engage the brake. In the third pic, is the cross operation lever. Is it possible the slot is worn so much all travel is lost before engagement? This appears to be the case on both rear wheels. any ideas would be welcome
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