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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Backfire '46 Ford 8BA

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Backfire '46 Ford 8BA -- page: 1 2

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JayChicago
10-24-2023 @ 5:47 PM
Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016
          
Mike
I think you are taking the right path. Charlie Schwendler is renown for doing excellent rebuilds.

istrum
10-23-2023 @ 5:22 PM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Oct 2023
          
Hello 51woody,
Thanks for your input and you are right, I can not find a mark on my crank pulley..
I think I will contact CAS5845 thx again, Mike Jackson

Thanks,
Mike Jackson

37RAGTOPMAN
10-23-2023 @ 7:26 AM
Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
          
HI BACKFIRE
with the air cleaner removed , and engine running,use a mirror and a light, see if there is dripping of fuel going down the carb, if it is it could be a needle and seat or a float problem, regulating the fuel
also check the pressure from the fuel pump , it could be too much, I think 3 pounds is where it should be, might be a time to get a vacuum gauge and fuel pump tester , if you do not have one,
test before replace,
hope this helps, 37 RAGTOPMAN, Maine

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 10-23-23 @ 3:01 PM

51woodie
10-23-2023 @ 7:13 AM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Jan 2017
          
Istrum; If you have any question about your carb, send it to Charlie Schwendler in New York. I had problems with the carb on my '46 being over rich, even though I had confirmed the float setting was correct, and the "power valve" was correct and properly seated. I could not figure out what the problem was, so I sent it and my fuel pump to Charlie. He worked on both, tested them on his shop engine and I had them back in a very short time. He found that someone in the past had oversized the main jets, so he replace them with the correct size. The engine now runs clean, with nice light brown spark plugs.

cas5845@yahoo.com 716-662-9159

I don't have any "timing marks" on the stock 59AB engine in my "46 Coupe, and unless you have a non stock engine, it is not likely your engine will have any either.

JayChicago
10-23-2023 @ 7:03 AM
Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016
          
"I turned the left side needle to close and backed it out, did the same to the right side needle, I turned both sides 1 1/2 turns but the engine didn't change at all"
That seems to me to be pointing to a problem with the carburetor mixture. I would not mess with the timing yet.

sarahcecelia
10-22-2023 @ 1:50 PM
Senior
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mar 2013
          
You do know the those 2 mixture screws are only for idle mixtures,right?

Regards, Steve Lee

sarahcecelia
10-22-2023 @ 1:47 PM
Senior
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mar 2013
          
You only need a timing light to check the advance timing when you rev the motor. You can set the initial timing staticly.

(1) Take a test light; attach the alligator clip to the output side of the coil; and ground the "IcePick"end. (2)Then turn the motor by hand until the little notch on the crank pulley is just to the left of (passenger side) of the timing mark. (3)Turn the key on; and turn the motor by hand clock wise; when the test light lights up; that is where it is timed!


The only time you really need a timing light; is to check the timing advance when you rev the motor.I set many cars timing back in the day using this method; before I could afford a timing light! Hope that helps you; Steve Lee

This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 10-22-23 @ 1:53 PM

istrum
10-13-2023 @ 5:34 PM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Oct 2023
          
Hello Carcrazy,
Well, I replaced the plugs and tweeked the timing and she runs like a sewing machine as they say...except after idling for a few minutes the plugs are carboned up already! I turned the left side needle to close and backed it out, did the same to the right side needle, I turned both sides 1 1/2 turns but the engine didn't change at all. All I can think of is the carb is out of adjustment. I haven't done a compression test yet.
Thx, Mike

Thanks,
Mike Jackson

carcrazy
10-13-2023 @ 8:02 AM
Senior
Posts: 1653
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It could be any of several things:
Idle mixture screws out too far allowing excessively rich mixture
Failed power valve leaking fuel past diaphragm or incorrectly made PV preventing gasket from sealing
Wrong carburetor calibration for your engine
Check the main metering jets (MMJs) to see if they are the correct size - somewhere around 48 or 50 should be a good starting place (if my memory serves) . If the mixture is still too rich as indicated by carbon fouled spark plugs (assuming the engine does not burn oil), go to leaner MMJs (lower number marking on jet) until you can get the engine to run properly.
A vacuum gauge can give you a lot of information about the mechanical condition of your engine.
A compression gauge reading of a cylinder that is lower than the others can indicate a leaking exhaust or intake valve.
A timing light is essential to set the ignition spark advance.

istrum
10-13-2023 @ 4:37 AM
Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Oct 2023
          
Thanks Carcrazy,
I will start with the ignition system changing the plugs and check timing. I'll work my way from there. I did pull a plug yesterday and it was pretty fouled up with carbon. when it was running it smelled rich w/ black smoke. Could it be the power valve in the carb or air fuel mixture?
It's a rebuilt Holley 94. I ordered a new power valved from Charlie Price anyway.
Thanks again, Mike

Thanks,
Mike Jackson

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