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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1949 Ford - Sticky Valves?

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1949 Ford - Sticky Valves? -- page: 1 2 3 4     TomO 09-05-2023 @ 5:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob Drake shows a reproduction tank for the 49 Ford. You might consider taking the tank to a radiator shop and have them boil it out solder the leak and then you can coat the inside with a good tank sealer like Bill Hirsh sells. Follow directions completely, especially when it comes to adding a second coat. If you don't follow the directions, the coating will be too thick and will start to peel eventually. I just use 1 coat when I do it. Tom RAK402 08-26-2023 @ 3:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 436 Joined: Jul 2015 Glad you got is resolved and thank you for posting the cause. That information will probably help many other people going forward. hootomik 08-25-2023 @ 11:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: Aug 2023 Update: I lubricated the distributor baseplate with silicone spray, and it seems to move more freely. I also retightened the vac take-off from the carb. The upshot is that the engine is running and revving much better now, so I guess it was either leaking vacuum at the carb take-off, or a stiff baseplate, or a combination of both. Thank you all for your suggestions, and special mentions for all the guys who suggested vacuum was the culprit! Now I have another issue: the fuel tank that I had filled with 15 gallons of gas last September has a leak, and is empty (which caused a few false turns during my investigation...). I have tried a couple of suppliers in the US for a new replacement stock tank, but they won't ship to the UK. Can you suggest anyone who will ship, at a reasonable cost? (I've tried Gear Head World and Tanks Inc. without success). hootomik 08-23-2023 @ 1:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: Aug 2023 Mufflers were new last year, and there is plenty of exhaust gas blasting out of both pipe, so I don't think there is a blockage. pauls39coupe 08-22-2023 @ 6:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 205 Joined: Jul 2014 Check the exhaust. Mice in the Muffler? Drop the head pipe to see if that help. Mufflers are a great place for critters to hide their winter food supply, and rust can cause the interior baffles to plug up. A vacuum reading of 19 at idle is OK, but falling off may indicate a plugged exhaust. hootomik 08-22-2023 @ 2:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: Aug 2023 A further update: Tom - thanks for the ebay link to the points - I've ordered them. My friend came over today with his vacuum pump and tester. The baseplate of the distributor moves under vacuum, but does not seem to move far enough. Also it appears to move back slowly when the vac is removed; is the baseplate not moving freely enough? Or could it be the vac advance unit (new last year)? We disconnected the vacuum at the carb and connected the vac pump to the line to the distributor instead. It held vacuum, so no leaks downstream, but also when pulling a vacuum via the pump, the timing advanced correctly and the engine revved smooth-ish with no pops and bangs. Switched the vac line back to the carb, and the running was as lumpy, poppy and bangy as before. I reckon the distributor is the culprit, so I await the delivery of my alternative (late next week maybe) with eager anticipation. TomO 08-22-2023 @ 12:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Your cap and rotor look OK from the photos. The set of points you have look like a poor quality as the rubbing block looks worn in the last photo. Your problem could be the mis-alignment of the contact points. I did not notice it in the previous photos, but your last photo clearly shows that the alignment is way off. The points must meet so the the faces meet squarely and are aligned top to bottom and front to back. Make sure the alignment is correct before setting the gap. The vacuum readings also suggest that the spark timing may be incorrect. Can you get access to a timing light and a dwell meter? If so I would set the points with the dwell meter and then time the spark. https://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14273/css/Figure-2-52-Contact-point-alignment-71.htm Here is a link to a set of points closer to you than Van Pelt. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284576145836?hash=item42420f61ac:g:bfQAAOSw5oFhwKYZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OH5wq5LpLIGiF%2BaUIoQKOC%2Bi4kLMjzuLKDfuJXX7w%2F1fS%2BKWbqTAYVAlXyaZKr8Is1EllCbV2MN8Igg0X1RXS7cpU77PNLOzTz0A%2BpKhAZU%2BmYwdCJ3JD3Vkw7Ja6vqznVGH0ZilqirCozfiqWDWJPonRatt4i8vON5cH8Vbe3gGrVTRqDrg%2FfPrpv9GVVIgAhYklQogER%2BzH4urNUq2eRPU4DBn%2B0TylzLMI%2FHKX0pcJhjI5bfSdlV%2BEr7jZNzujnEu3QgmAb55RgBktWcobcBIxv%2BD6kXRs7hYqYTUgYC%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-im8OjDYg Tom Drbrown 08-22-2023 @ 7:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 570 Joined: Nov 2013 A steady vacuum reading of 19 at idle is good. My '47 reads 17 at idle and runs great. Vacuum naturally drops as engine RPM's increase. A bad timing gear would show up at all RPM's. Back firing is basically an ignition problem but has also been known to be caused by carbon build-up. hootomik 08-22-2023 @ 6:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: Aug 2023 Not as curious as me RAK402! I fitted the correct condenser today, then hooked-up a vacuum gauge to the wiper port. At idle, the reading is 19. Increasing the revs drops it progressively to 10, and down to 5 when the throttle is properly 'blipped' (at which point it is backfiring through the carb). My perception is that the car is revving a bit more freely now... but still popping and banging as the revs rise. What does this all mean? RAK402 08-21-2023 @ 7:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 436 Joined: Jul 2015 I am really curious as to what the issue finally turns out to be.

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