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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Vapor lock

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Vapor lock -- page: 1 2     46coupe 03-31-2022 @ 3:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Thanks Tom, It'll be awhile before I can follow up on everything I need to check. I'll get back to everyone when I have some answers. TomO 03-30-2022 @ 2:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Brad, what is the make and rating of your battery? How old is it? Can you take the car to a battery store to have them check out the battery? In situations like this it always good to start with a clean slate, so having the battery checked will give us a good starting point. In August of 2020 you replied to a post : "I went to a welding supply with my old 12v cable and he cut me one out of #1 cable. Bought two terminal ends from NAPA and it works great. Based on what Tom and some others told me on this forum. I went and got all my cables replaced with #1 cable. They didn't have OO or O. WHAT a difference. Car starts on a crank and a half. No pumping the gas pedal or choking the carb. Turn on the switch, pull the choke to half throttle and hit the starter button. Vrrrooom. " If you bought clamp on terminals, it is likely that they developed some corrosion over the past couple of years. NAPA sells 6 volt cables, but I recommend that you buy your cables from a vendor that supplies our cars, like Dennis Carpenter C&G Ford or third Gen. because they sell cables that are made the correct length and rating. Vapor lock is when the fuel going into the fuel pump vaporizes before it gets to the pump. The pump cannot suck the vapor so the sediment bowl and carburetor bowl empty making the engine starve for fuel. A quick fix for vapor lock is the cool the fuel line going into the fuel pump and the fuel pump. Tom 46coupe 03-30-2022 @ 1:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Yep clean and tight. wmsteed 03-30-2022 @ 10:03 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 613 Joined: Oct 2009 46coupe; You have stated that "the terminal are tight" Are they clean and tight? When I was a teen working in service stations it was SOP while lubricating/servicing a vehicle to remove the battery cables from the battery, clean the battery posts and cable ends with a wire brush tool, when the cables were reconnected to the battery we put a red non-corrosive coating on the cables/posts. I have a running battle going with the clowns that service my RV's batteries, a total of six 6v and two 12v when I have the annual service work done. Most of the time when I pick the RV up I open the battery compartment door up, generally finding dirty batteries which results in a trip back into the service department to have a talk with the service tech. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe 46coupe 03-29-2022 @ 2:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 No. It's always done it. Drive to a show, everything cools, and it starts. Go to the gas station, shut the engine off and it cranks so slow that it won't start. The car club guys figured it was vapor lock. no one ever mention anything about coil, condenser, etc. I always disconnect the battery after driving and trickle charge it for a few hours before driving. The starter turns over fine. I rechecked the connections after your last post and they are tight. TomO 03-27-2022 @ 9:29 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Did the slow cranking problem just start? Tom 46coupe 03-27-2022 @ 4:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Thanks Tom, I have tightened everything and had correct cables made for this car. Thanks to you and others who posted about cables a long while ago. I'll recheck everything again. I had a problem with the starter a year after I bought the car. I took it to a generator rebuild place who checked it out to find that the brass inside had tarnished to the point of not making good contact. He cleaned everything and it worked great. He said it was from lack of use. The car had not been started most of that year. Now I start and run/drive the car a couple of times a month for 20+ miles. That helps other components as well Brad TomO 03-26-2022 @ 12:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Fuel flow is not going to fix a slow starter. Check your battery for good capacity (650 CCA or more), check that the battery is fully charged, check all of the cables in the starter circuit for condition and capacity( pay particular attention to where the cables are soldered to the connector, green or gray corrosion means the cable is failing. Do NOT use 12v cables), check that all connections are clean (battery posts, grounding studs, solenoid connections and starter connections), make sure that all connections are tight and not over tightened (over tightening the starter connection can lead to broken wires inside the starter) Answer my questions about changes and when the problem started. Once you get the slow cranking speed problem repaired, you can do a fuel delivery test to see if your fuel pump and lines are operating correctly. Tom 46coupe 03-26-2022 @ 2:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I'll start checking all areas as time allows. The starter was looked at a few years ago. It was ok. I don't know how old the coil is so after I check fuel flow I'll check the coil and resistor. I probably won't get to it for the next few days, but will let you all know what I find. TomO 03-25-2022 @ 7:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 If your engine cranks over very slow when hot, your starter is probably dropping the voltage to the coil causing a very weak spark. Have you made any changes or repairs lately? Did this problem just start or have you been living with it and now it has become so bad that you can't live with it? If you have been living with the problem, it could be 12V cables or bad grounding cables. If it just started, then it is probably time to have your starter serviced. Tom

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