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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 12 volt system

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 12 volt system -- page: 1 2     TomO 07-15-2021 @ 7:47 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7264 Joined: Oct 2009 Congratulations on your new car. The 39 Convertible is a very nice car to own and yours looks very nice. The condition of the brake fluid is a good indicator of the condition of the hydraulic system, so IMHO you are on the right track. You will need the special hub puller for Ford rear hubs. This tool clamps on the center of the hub and frees up the hub so you can get at the rear brakes. Here is one source for the puller: http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html You also must make sure that the brake shoe adjustment cams are turned to fully retract the brake shoes. Once you have the drums off, you should inspect the bottom of the axle housings for wear. The axle housings serve as the inner race for the rear bearings. If the surface is worn excessively, you will have to disassemble the rear end and have sleeves installed on the housing. I hope that you have ordered new grease seals, because you should re-pack the wheel bearings using Sta lube SL 3131 grease. It is available fro Amazon and local parts houses. https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3131-Heavy-Bearing-Grease/dp/B000CPJMYI/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=crc+heavy+duty+drum+brake+wheel+bearing+grease&qid=1626360323&sr=8-4 Post a photo of your battery. It will make it easier to identify it. Your car appears to have the original type bulb headlamps. Check the bulb to see if it is 12 volts. If it is, your car has been converted to 12 volts. Search the internet for the 12 volt conversion instructions and then check your car to make sure that all bulbs, generator, voltage regulator and a voltage reducer for the instrument have been installed. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-15-21 @ 7:56 AM Ramblin Reck 07-15-2021 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 9 Joined: Jun 2021 The master cylinder is easy to get to and I have a younger friend who knows how to bleed brakes. We filled the master cylinder and he opened the bleed screw on the starboard rear wheel while I pumped the brakes. Not necessary to jack up the car. Nothing came out of the bleed screw so we assume that the lines have collapsed from extremely long periods of sitting idle in a garage somewhere. The car will stop so we must be getting brake fluid to the front wheels. The brakes are real squishy if that 's a word. The fluid in the master cylinder was dark and there were pieces of matter (looked like cork?) floating up in the master cylinder. So there you have my deductive reasoning. No need to apologize. The only dumb question is the one that is not asked. Thanks to everyone who replied to my post. I really do appreciate it and need all the help I can get. I have paid my dues to the Early V8 club and look forward to my new hobby. And I will get some pictures posted. sarahcecelia 07-14-2021 @ 6:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1194 Joined: Mar 2013 I did many brake jobs" back in the day" and that is an "Old Wives Tale" and a "money maker," that brake shoes that have grease or brake fluid on them need to be replaced. I just washed them with gasoline, sanded any glaze on them off , and they worked like new! I did it on customers cars at the dealership that I worked for, and never got a "Come back!" The grease or brake fluid won't penetrate those hard linings, it's only on the surface! Regards, Steve Lee JayChicago 07-14-2021 @ 2:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 492 Joined: Jan 2016 Another thought for what its worth: You have an unusual 12 volt positive ground. Usually (but not always) when an old car is converted to 12 volt it is also converted to the modern standard of negative ground. Do you know the seller, and the recent history of the car? Could it still be a 6 volt system? Could someone have put a handy 12 volt battery in there to complete the sale / get the car gone? I agree with the advice above that you should join your local chapter of the club, and get some experienced guys to help you figure out what you have, and where you need to start working. 42wagon 07-14-2021 @ 2:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 586 Joined: Oct 2009 I'm not sure what you mean by "the car doesn't stop well". Don't expect that car to stop the way a modern car with power brakes does. I hope you aren't disappointed after doing all that work. As for the electrical system you should be able to tell whether the battery is 6 volt or 12 volt. 12 volt systems are negative ground. Not sure what happens if you hook it up backwards. And I also wonder what the other major electrical components are. woodiewagon46 07-14-2021 @ 12:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 705 Joined: Nov 2012 Forgive me for questioning you, but why wouldn't you check the shoes and drum's first? You are replacing everything but the two things that are designed to wear out and easily serviced. CharlieStephens 07-14-2021 @ 11:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 894 Joined: Oct 2009 Now is the time to look at the shoes and drums when everything is apart. If the shoes have oil or grease on them replace them. Be sure to have the new ones arced to match the drums. Call the local chapter of the club and see who does it in your area, only a few shops do it anymore but it is an important step. If the drums have grooves in them have them turned. Have them measured. If they are over 12.060 replace them. If the car has has been together and running for a while you are probably ok with the electrical. If it just went together and has never been run you might have some knowledgeable on the electrical look at it. It is amazing how bad some of the conversions are. The one thing that scares me, although it will work, is the fact that it is positive ground. Most good electrical people go to negative so modern electronics can be used in the car. Ford went to 12 volts in the mid sixties so the engine change didn't drive the change. Welcome to the forum and how about posting some pictures? Charlie Stephens therunwaybehind 07-14-2021 @ 11:12 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: May 2019 The generator output on this system needs to be about 13.2 volts to charge the battery where each cell voltage at full charge is 2.2 volts. The cell resistance in discharge takes that down more and more as the battery ages. The reason why the different views of ground is that electrons that flow in the wires were discovered to have a negative charge and the ions in the sulphuric acid that migrate between the plates have positive charges. trjford8 07-14-2021 @ 7:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4232 Joined: Oct 2009 Many people go to the 12 volt system due to failing to bring the 6 volt system up to stock standards. Failure to use the proper size battery cables and properly grounding the system causes most of the problems. Next is making sure the charging system is up to the job of keeping the battery in good shape. Definitely fix the brakes first and then move to the electrical. I might also suggest that you purchase the V-8 Club's 38-39 book as it will help you with facts and figures of your new purchase. In addition join the Early Ford V-8 Club if you haven't already. The bi-monthly magazine, the V-8 Times, is well worth the price of admission. You also get a roster of members, some of who may live near you and can give you some great advice. Welcome to the forum Kens 36 07-14-2021 @ 7:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 352 Joined: Oct 2009 Congratulations on your "new" car and welcome to the forum! Starting with the brakes is not a bad idea. Properly set up, the original braking system should stop your car just fine. All Early Ford V-8's were 6-volt, positive ground. This continued through 1955, so a prior owner of your car must have had a reason to change. Once you get your car to stop, going through the entire electrical system is a good next step. Be especially aware of the condition of the wiring. Good luck! Ken

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