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Posted By Discussion Topic: Head removal     lightflyer1 06-18-2010 @ 10:11 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Oct 2009 My friend has a 36 coupe with a stock engine. When trying to start yesterday the engine locked up. He pulled the plugs and turned it over and it spun free although water gushed from one spark plug hole. Now he is trying to remove the head, but after removing the bolts/studs (? I wasn't there) the head won't come free. Are there some hidden bolts/studs/nuts or is it just stuck to the block? I suggested using a deadfall mallet tapping around the edges or maybe some kind of jig to slowly pull it off. Any info to help him? Thanks in advance! David supereal 06-18-2010 @ 11:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The lockup was "hydro lock" caused by coolant in the cylinder. Be sure to check the rod and piston in that cylinder to see if it was damaged. The best to hope for is a bad head gasket, as it could be a block crack. You didn't say whether the head is iron or aluminum. The iron heads should come off with a bit of persuasion by a soft headed hammer and a putty knife inserted between the head and the block. Tap the sides of the head as you pry. If the head is aluminum, it is likely bonded to the studs. If it doesn't respond to the methods above, it may have to be destroyed to remove it. We use a special hole saw that just fits over the studs, and about half the time, the head can be reused if done with care. If you do get the head off, plan to have the gasket surface machined flat before reinstalling it, whether it is either type. Be careful when prying not to damage the block. Good luck, and tell us how this comes out. lightflyer1 06-18-2010 @ 12:38 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Oct 2009 I was told the head was iron. I also knew about hydrolock and told him about that as well. I will keep you informed as to what happens next. Thanks! lightflyer1 06-18-2010 @ 1:17 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Oct 2009 Head came off. Thanks! Crack in the block between cylinder and valve seat he said (2 of them close together). Needs professional input for rebuild possibilities or another engine. Any recommendations for competent help in the Central Texas area? This message was edited by lightflyer1 on 6-18-10 @ 1:19 PM lightflyer1 06-18-2010 @ 5:23 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Oct 2009 So he spoke with someone today who said they can fix the cracks between the valve seat and cylinder using something called "stiching". Any ideas on this? Supposedly opens up the crach and refills it with ? and remachines it back like original. I have heard of something like this with AL heads badly beaten up being repaired by building up the low spots and machining back. The old V8 site used to have some pictures I remember seeing of someone that had repaired a split as described in some blocks (Supereal?). Ah Ha! http://www.locknstitch.com/Metal_Stitching.htm Would this be the correct method? This message was edited by lightflyer1 on 6-18-10 @ 5:26 PM supereal 06-19-2010 @ 9:00 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 In most cases, any crack large enough to fill the cylinder with coolant is not worthy of attempts to repair it. With sound blocks still around, by getting very pricey, it is still the best choice. I am attaching some photos of repaired block at our shop. These were cracks that were visible, but not reaching into the water jacket. If any pinning is attempted, the block will certainly have to be treated with a special sealing compound. Even then, the outcome is dicey. supereal 06-19-2010 @ 9:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If it didn't post, I'll try again. This message was edited by supereal on 6-19-10 @ 9:06 AM supereal 06-19-2010 @ 9:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 My system seems to be cranky today. 37RAGTOPMAN 06-19-2010 @ 12:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 I would take the engine to a good auto truck repair shop and see what they say, the crack should atleast be magafluxed and see were the crack runs too, I stitched many engines in the water jacket andhaveno problems. around the valves is another story, you would want to get a expert opinon, what about posting a picture. so we could have a look see, you might get more opinions, the web site with the stitch process is very interesting, I have a kit that consisted of tapered studs,and tapered tap, if you do any stitching on the top of block you will have to get it machined or very carefully make the stitching even with the rest of the top of block, remember everyday they repair heads and blocks for many makes or gas and diesel engines,with out any problems,some of these heads runs in the thousands,and to repair is the way to go,but maybe you would want to get maybe a backup block just incase buy it with a money back if it is cracked guarrantee KEEP ON TRUCKIN, 37RAGTOPMAN supereal 06-20-2010 @ 2:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The main problem with a block that is badly cracked is the probability of water getting into the oil and ruining the bearings. We had one like that last year brought to us. It had a crack down the side of one cylinder, and someone had tried to sleeve that cylinder. The sleeve let loose at the bottom and ruined the otherwise good engine. We use a silicon material in blocks and heads that we suspect of leaking, but don't show up on the MagnaFlux machine. Repairing bad cracks is dicey at best, and we prefer not to do it because it makes our rebuild guarantee the fall guy if the repair doesn't hold.

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