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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 dash wiring

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Junglejim

06-24-2020 @ 8:06 AM

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So, long story short. I bought a 1937 ford when I was 16 back in 1997, since then I have fiddled with it when I could but never with intent. I recently shipped it from my child hood home to my current residence and am finally trying to figure things out. I have a few issues. First its pretty much original, minus an electrical fuel pump and 1940's dristributor. So the head lights are super dim and my brake lights hardly work at all. When I have the head lights on and depress the brakes they dim so much I cant see them and the brake lights dim as well. Under the dash I am trying to understand the "rats nest" of wires. What I would like to know is how does number 1. measure amps? How does #2 measure oil pressure, and what is the purpose of this coil? Does the generator appear OK?
Thanks
Jimmy

Junglejim

06-24-2020 @ 8:17 AM

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Forgot the pictures

06-24-2020 @ 10:10 AM

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As you can see, the amp gauge has a loop around the wire. Induction from the wire is induced into the loop which moves the needle of the gauge.

What you refer to as a "coil" is a resistor wired in series with the ignition coil.

Oil pressure gauge is wired to a sender/sensor which is scr*w*d into the back of the engine block on the drivers side....

What "generator"???

This message was edited by MG on 6-24-20 @ 10:17 AM

Junglejim

06-24-2020 @ 11:01 AM

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Generator

Junglejim

06-24-2020 @ 11:03 AM

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So if the amp gauge does not move at all, do I have an issue? What is the purpose of the resistor?
Thank you
Jim

06-24-2020 @ 11:14 AM

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The amp gauge should move pos. or neg. to show charge + or discharge -. If it does not move at all, yes, you have an "issue". Have you checked the fuse (as seen in the picture you posted) for continuity?

To operate correctly, the ignition coil requires less than 6 volts and therefore the resistor is added to step down the voltage presented to the coil....

The picture of the generator you posted looks to be correct for your car....

This message was edited by MG on 6-24-20 @ 11:43 AM

Junglejim

06-24-2020 @ 12:36 PM

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Thanks MG,
The fuse is intack, still no variability as i run the car, no matter the RPM.
Does any one have a picture of the wiring under their dash of a 1937 car?
Jim

51woodie

06-24-2020 @ 1:25 PM

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Jimmy. Welcome to the EFV8 Club. It looks like you made a good buy when you were younger, congratulations. Hopefully, you are going to keep it stock and enjoy the pleasures of owning an old Ford. The big issues with these old Fords is bad grounds and the plug in connectors. There are all sorts of posts on this site, that addresses these issues, if you do a search.

When I bought my '46 Coupe, if found the lights were dim as well, and it didn't crank over very quick, but I learned from this site. Assuming you are still 6 volt, positive ground, make sure you have the correct gauge of battery cables, from + to ground and - to the solenoid, and from there to the starter. I can't recall the gauge size, but someone will likely post it here. Our 6 volt systems draw more current that 12 volts, and previous owners sometimes replace the cables rated for 12 volt systems that draw less current. The other thing is, the cables need to have proper ends, that are soldered or crimped. All the cable connections need to be taken appart, cleaned of any paint or corrosion and re connected. In the wiring harness, the plug in connectors need to be taken appart, cleaned with small wire brushes and checked for a tight connection when plugged back in. Check the ground connections at the head and tail lights as well. Hope this helps.

40 Coupe

06-24-2020 @ 1:49 PM

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The resistor you show in one photo seems to have a broken mounting board. It should not hang in the air by the wires. It is to reduce the voltage going to the ignition coil. If your vehicle is still 6V the coil runs on about 3V.

06-24-2020 @ 2:31 PM

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The amp gauge may have a stuck meter movement due to the car sitting idle for an extended period of time. Turn on the headlights and then tap on the back side of the gauge ( or even the front side) and see if by doing this the gauge frees up....

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