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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Horns for 1936 Ford 4 Door Delux Hatchback

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Horns for 1936 Ford 4 Door Delux Hatchback -- page: 1 2     Mr Rogers 07-29-2019 @ 4:59 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 106 Joined: Jul 2019 Horns do not HONK. Checked for power at the terminals and nonda. Harnesses are all original, some have tape and so far choosing not to break into the sheathing. Read in forums the degree of difficulty to extract horn button. Any suggestions to locate mal-function? Light switch operates perfect and choosing not to operate into the column if I'll screw up the lighting. Push comes to shove I'll install a button somewhere on the column and run power to the horns. Any advice ..... running thru a fuse ... Pos or Neg to the horn wires? Car is presently set up as Pos ground. Much thanks. Tom flatheadfan 07-29-2019 @ 5:26 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 Horns not working can be a nightmare. First, pull the horns and bench try them. If they don't work you will need to swap out the inners with ones that do work. Just about any 6 volt horn inner from a maker will as they all seem to have the same inner bolt pattern. Before, you start taking things apart, try this, remove the lighting bulb on the end of the steering column. In the center of the inner plastic plate is a spring with a brass terminal. Clean this tip as well as the brass tip on the end of the horn rod. I have seen several cases over time that leaking gear oil from the steering box has worked into the electric wiring bulb and prevented the two contacts from completing a good contact. As a result, none or a very weak sound. Tom flatheadfan 07-29-2019 @ 5:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 Oh yes, negative to the horn (s), positive is the ground via the horn rod. No fuse should be used. nelsb01 07-29-2019 @ 9:36 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 991 Joined: Oct 2009 Before you go taking them apart-- do a seach on horns from this Forum. Click on Search (right side blue box) and then enter horns in topic and change 60 days to ALL. Remember over the years the horn internals changed. Originally you could adjust the vibrator and if need be file the points to clean them up. Later, the internals were sealed. But check out the seach function --- lots of horn topics and maybe some help for your problem. Mr Rogers 07-30-2019 @ 12:06 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 106 Joined: Jul 2019 If I choose to install a store bought push button & mount it on the steering column ... how would I attach the wires. 1 wire thru the button .... but picking up a hot? Under the dash at the electrical board that has 1 fuse? I think I see 2 wires going into the horn. I'm not an electrical expert. I even have a problem reading schematics. CaliforniaBorn36 07-31-2019 @ 12:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 57 Joined: Jan 2013 Horn Button, replacement button provide the ground for the horn TomO 07-31-2019 @ 6:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7264 Joined: Oct 2009 The hot wire to the horns comes from the hot wire on the starter switch. The horn button supplies the ground. You can use a voltmeter or test light to determine which wire is the hot wire going to the horns, it should be a heavy yellow wire. The wire from the horn button should be a yellow wire with a green stripe or tracer. If you do not have voltage at the horns check the connectors by the left head light and then at the battery side of the starter switch. If you have voltage at the left horn, connect a jumper 12 gauge wire to the terminal that does not have voltage and touch the other end to a head nut. The horn should make noise. If it doesn't , the horn may need repair. Try the other horn with the same test. If it fails also, connect a 12 ga jumper wire from the battery side of the starter switch to the horn terminal that showed voltage and repeat the test. If the horn blows, check the wire coming from the starter switch for good connections all the way to the horn. Tom Mr Rogers 08-01-2019 @ 9:23 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 106 Joined: Jul 2019 Crystal Clear!! Much thanks!! Mr Rogers 08-02-2019 @ 9:35 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 106 Joined: Jul 2019 Removed the left horn housing to expose the inners, all look clean/no rust. I put a tester to both fasteners and ground ... no light on the tester. Tested the hot side starter terminal and got light. I'll build/use a jumper next. Now I'll have to assume there's a break within the brittle sheathing. I don't see an exposed connection. All lights work. I'm thinking, with a sharp razor blade, remove all the sheathing. Replace it with store bought flex plastic. Don't want to replace harnesses at this stage of detective work. MG 08-02-2019 @ 11:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1262 Joined: Nov 2009 No need to "remove all the sheathing". Use heat shrink tubing to cover the sheathing on the wire. > https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Heat-shrink-Tubing/b?node=700782011 And, if you don't have one, get yourself a heat gun. > https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hot+air%2Fheatshrink+gun&i=industrial&ref=nb_sb_noss

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