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Discussion Topic:
1937 front windshield
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srg |
06-05-2019 @ 1:18 PM
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Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Feb 2019
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I'm putting new glass in my windshield. Does anyone have any tips for separating the two halves? All screws are out but the two halves are really fused together. I have tried pounding with a mallet, heat, and penetrant. I could use my porta power with 8000 lbs. torque, but I could really get into a destructive mode using that monster. Any thoughts? Thank you.
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trjford8 |
06-06-2019 @ 7:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4220
Joined: Oct 2009
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Have you soaked the gap and screw holes with Kroil or PB blaster? You may need to let it sit for a few days before attempting to get it apart. In the past I have used a block of wood against the bottom of the frame and hit the wood with the hammer.
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TomO |
06-06-2019 @ 7:35 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Soak the sides with a good penetrant like 50/50 mixture of acetone and auto trans fluid. When dealing with parts that are rusted together, patience is the most important part of the operation. You may have to keep doing this for a week or more. Sharp blows, as described by TRJford8, do more to break the rust bond than the steady pressure of the Porta Power.
Tom
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1937sedandelivery |
06-06-2019 @ 1:20 PM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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I have gone through this before with three different windshields. They were all difficult to separate. One came apart after soaking and heat applied (it was a standard model so didn't care about the frame discoloring). On the other two, after successfully breaking off at least half the screws (:, the frame halves would not come apart. They were hopelessly rusted together with the internal 1/4" steel stock piece being the catalyst. Desperate situation leads to desperate measures...I hacksawed thru the joint and got a good look at the square stock and how badly it was rusted in place. So, I pulled out the drill and drilled out the stock piece as much as possible, it was several inches long. I couldn't pull out the piece so I pounded it in further, out of the way. Bought some new 1/4" stock from Ace, drilled and tapped four new holes and now have a frame that is ready to assemble, etc. gregg
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srg |
06-06-2019 @ 4:51 PM
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Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Feb 2019
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Thank you, all of you. Patience is order no.1 for this operation. I will continue to apply penetrant and heat and sharp blows. One side was broke (the glass) and I removed it. I found a spot under it at the joint where the two halves meet with an indent to fit a flat chisel. That may help. I have noticed the square stock insert that joins the two halved is not drilled out, as the exterior of the frame is. It appears the four small screws that button the window together just press against the internal square stock, not screw through it. On the penetrant front, I have used Kroil. Sea Foam, W-D, Rust breaker from W-D, Liquid Wrench and tomorrow I am going to try a mixture of Acetone and brake fluid. I read people's testimonies and they swear by it. The old glass is very thick. Looks like almost 3/8" to 1/2" inch.
This message was edited by srg on 6-6-19 @ 5:03 PM
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37 Coupe |
06-07-2019 @ 5:33 AM
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Posts: 362
Joined: Oct 2009
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If that windshield is 3/8"-1/2" thick I would leave it as it must be the rare Al Capone 1937 Ford.
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TomO |
06-07-2019 @ 7:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have not heard many success stories with brake fluid breaking the rust bond, I do know that it can collect enough water to eat away a brake cylinder. I would try the trans fluid and acetone mixture. Mix enough so that you cn immerse one end of the frame for a couple of days and then the other end. I have used Evapo-Rust to remove rust and it does a good job, but I don't know if it would creep into the joint and free up the bond between the parts. -
Tom
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srg |
06-07-2019 @ 8:12 AM
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Member
Posts: 66
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Sorry Tom. I meant to say ATF rather than brake fluid.
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srg |
06-07-2019 @ 8:22 AM
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Member
Posts: 66
Joined: Feb 2019
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That was a good one. I measured and it's two pieces of glass laminated , each 1/8" thick. The gap in the frame is 3/8". The material holding it in the frame was a woven thin, brown material which disintegrated on removal. Did original front window glass have the Ford "crab" or just the other windows?
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3w2 |
06-07-2019 @ 6:51 PM
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Senior
Posts: 842
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you mean the Ford script oval safety glass 'bug', the answer is yes although the lettering beneath the oval differs from that in the side and rear windows.
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