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Discussion Topic:
melted battery terminal - 48 Mercury
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nelsonford |
05-23-2010 @ 11:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks again 37RAGTOPMAN I will check into those part vendors. I haven't had any problems with Mac's parts but some have been from China like a coil and the solenoid I just installed. I will look into Rhode Island wiring too. Thanks again.
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supereal |
05-23-2010 @ 10:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If a battery terminal melts, it is most likely that it wasn't securely tightened when the new battery was installed. The lead-to-lead contact must be clean and tight, or the high resistance will cook the terminal. The generator output is 20-30 amps, or more, if the battery is low or the terminal is loose. It is doubtful a "parasitic" drain would be sufficient. When we chase parasitic problems, we put a 1.0 ohm, ten watt resistor in series between the battery cable and the terminal and put a digital voltmeter across the resistor. The measured voltage drop is directly proportional to the current draw, so a reading of .02 volt indicates a .02 amp (20mA) drain. It is much more accurate that a test light, and most meters will not handle current loads.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
05-23-2010 @ 8:22 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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call up RHODE ISLAND wiring, 401 789 1955 and they will send you a catalog, cost only $2.00 if you want the best WIRING, as far as I am concerened,correct colors and guage and made in USA,for sure, not TAIWAN,or CHINA BUY AMERICAN,is my MOTTO Also their WIRING come with a instruction diagram. old wiring is asking for trouble, NOTHIN BUT TROUBLE DOWN THE ROAD, I hope the MACS parts are good, you can also try the V8 SHOP in NY, and JOBLOT SEND FOR A FREE CATLOG, been in business 50 years,have some NOS FORD, www.joblotauto.com order on there web site, there in 4 to 5 days, keep on truckin, 37RAGTOPMAN REMEMBER the more knowledge were to buy GOOD PARTS, the better you will be,and the eaiser it will be,to repair, ALSO LITTLE DEARBORN is another FORD Store to explore,
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 5-23-10 @ 8:24 AM
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nelsonford |
05-23-2010 @ 7:23 AM
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Member
Posts: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
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37RAGTOPMAN, The wiring is original to answer your other question. I know. If I had stopped it in the garage I could have lost more than the 48. I had one of those china disconnect switches on the car but took it off because I heard of problems with them. I will have to look for a good one. Thanks again. Jeff
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nelsonford |
05-23-2010 @ 7:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks 37RAGTOPMAN, Yours sounds like really good advice. I am waiting for a battery cable and horn relay from Mac's now and will find my test light. I will let you know how I make out. Jeff
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37RAGTOPMAN |
05-23-2010 @ 7:08 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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You NEED to TEST for a Drain on the Battery, do this, use a good charged up battery, take a light bulb circuit tester 12 volt will work, put on end to the battery ground wire and the other to the battery ground post, this is in between the 2, if the light is on,,, you have a drain on the battery dissconnect one wire "circuit" at a time till the light goes off, this will lead you were the drain is, I had a bad starter switch on a MODEL A do this, so dissconnect the starter wire first thing. it could be the starter,or the swith , it must have been something with a heavy draw to do this, also disconnect the BAT wire on the regulator,and see what happens, HOW OLD IS YOUR WIRING ? I think you had a close call on loosing your 48, also when done fixing install A GOOD, battery disconnect switch, not one from China, LETS HEAR HOW YOU MADE OUT,,,,,!!!!!!!!!! KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37 RAGTOPMAN
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nelsonford |
05-23-2010 @ 6:40 AM
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Member
Posts: 52
Joined: Nov 2009
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I had a horn wire short in the exit of the steering box (the horn was blowing when I moved the steering wheel). I repaired the wire and drove the car about 10 miles and parked. 2 hours later the car would not start. Upon checking under the hood I found the (new) Battery terminal Hot and removed it as it fell apart. The (new) Solenoid switch is not stuck - no continuity accross terminals. I opened the horn relay. It has a loose contact and some carbon left from arcing. I will replace it. Is that my problem?
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