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Posted By Discussion Topic: electricity help -- page: 1 2     fordmerc 01-11-2019 @ 9:16 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Oct 2009 Dwell checked by an experienced friend with a professional analog meter- he said OK but I don’t know the number. I will check the condenser and I have a new one on order TomO 01-11-2019 @ 8:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7274 Joined: Oct 2009 Fordmerc, does you meter have a capacitor test position on it? If so your capacitor should show about 3uf. You can try this test, remove the condenser and connect an ohmmeter across it. It should show an immediate short and then quickly show an open. Reverse the meter leads and repeat the test, you should get the same results. If you don't get those results, go to NAPA and get another condenser. If you have a dwell meter, connect it to the distributor and let us know the reading. Tom ford38v8 01-10-2019 @ 9:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2795 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, it was good talking with you tonight! It's been a long time! Tell your friend to give me a call, you have my number, or email me. Alternatively, he can post his question here and I'll pick it up, and maybe help some others as well. From what you said here, a "grabbing wheel" could describe a problem with brakes, or perhaps a wheel bearing, but doubtful it would be stuck in the sheath. I can, with more information, track it down, and it would be best to start right here on the V8 Forum. We have to get on the horn more often! Alan supereal 01-10-2019 @ 1:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan: I have been receiving a question about brake adjustment on the '38 cable brakes. It would be helpful to post your advice regarding this, as you are the cable brake "guru". I have given general advice re this often perplexing system. The questions started because the owner has a "grabbing" wheel. I suspect the cable from that wheel may be sticking or stuck in the sheath. Regards, Bob ford38v8 01-10-2019 @ 12:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2795 Joined: Oct 2009 As Skip has checked your coil already, and you have changed your condenser also, what remains as possible electrical causes are connections and size of wires and cables. Engine compartment heat and vibration can compromise connections that may test OK otherwise. Check your distributor and condenser for bare metal contact, no paint, and for tight bolts. Condensers may fail right of the box, so change it again now. Clean and grease battery posts, and ensure that those cables are correct for 6 volt, not 12 volt. Inspect condition of battery cables also. Even a good looking braided ground cable can be corroded inside at the terminal, making it useless. This alone can certainly be your problem, including a charging deficiency making you think you generator or battery is bad. Alan fordmerc 01-10-2019 @ 10:37 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Oct 2009 I am troubleshooting a problem that the engine stops when it gets warm/hot. My previous efforts were guided by my initial post: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=12442&keywords= Since then I note that the spark at a plug started to become irregular, and then disappeared at the time the engine stopped. Gas seemed to be coming into the carb at that time when I pumped the throttle. I am now trying to see if I can find an electrical problem to blame since the low voltage at the coil stands out as a big red flag. I can conceive that a resistor becomes so hot that it will drop the voltage to the coil after a while, and I have tried three resistors without benefit. The coil was rechecked by Skip Haney without a problem found. I have replaced the condenser once. The distributor was checked by Bubba and found to be OK. Each wire/link in the system has been checked an no resistance is found in the wires. I wanted to be sure that I understood that a “short” in the system would not cause a constant current flow leading to resistor overheating. I disconnected the spark plug wires on the theory that that was where the current flowed but I guess that theory fails also. I continue to appreciate the help from this forum, so I will explore any avenue within my competence (which isn’t very high). Thanks to all who have responded. This message was edited by fordmerc on 1-10-19 @ 10:40 AM LarryK 01-10-2019 @ 9:06 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 105 Joined: Aug 2012 In your second post, you ask "Where is the current going?" With the points closed, current flows from the battery through the following components which are all connected in series: ignition switch, resistor, primary winding of the coil, to ground. This flow of current causes the resistor to heat up, which increases its resistance, and causes an increase in the voltage drop across it. There will be a corresponding decrease in voltage at the coil, as you have measured. With both sets of points open (they are connected in parallel), the circuit is opened and no current will flow. Thus your measured 6.1 volts at the coil. Larry TomO 01-09-2019 @ 6:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7274 Joined: Oct 2009 As Supereal explained, your readings sound normal. Are you troubleshooting a problem or just trying to find out what is normal? If you are trouble shooting a problem, describe the problem and maybe we can give you a good procedure to troubleshoot it. Tom fordmerc 01-09-2019 @ 5:52 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Oct 2009 I have kept the battery on a charger and while it is two years old, I bought this one new because of the problem that I have. I want to blame the voltage drop on a current leak, but I can't find one and from other responses I seem to be barking up the wrong tree. 40 Coupe 01-08-2019 @ 3:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1698 Joined: Oct 2009 Charge your battery and take it to a auto parts store that can check it. Voltage should not drop that fast.

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